I wish to write reminiscences of my
childhood in few lines. Undoubtedly my sincere effort is to call for better
understanding and developing a feel of oneness and cooperation so that
community boldly faces all odds and Bhotia tribe of Johar region in Uttarakhand
would be able to save its distinct identity. In this context I have referred my
childhood memories, to describe about contemporary social values, social life
and belief system which ultimately influenced younger generation and
environment of fraternity and common progressive attitude was created. I
sincerely wish let the community people understand, we are the fire and this
energy must be harnessed for welfare of the coming generations, translate our
ambitions in to reality to reach with intense desire to targeted destination,
which may definitely decide future of our society. Our ancestors being business
travelers, could dare to move beyond the borders and were capable to make a
difference and always believed in together we are, stronger we are.
Pic. 1: Dense forest, on the background snow clad mountains. There is a
need to spread message of Green cover
Village
Burfu:
My Village is situated approximately 11000ft (~3200mts) height from the
sea level. River Burfu (Burfu-garh) which originates from Burfu glacier meets
Gori garh( river) here. Upper side of village is covered with Singuli (forest)
that has horizontal growth parallel to ground level (due to high altitude
climatic conditions). Fantastic grazing ground (Bugyal) spread well over
Bhadeli gwar, the snow line area. On the other side of Gori River (Gori garh)
from left side, fascinating Tyore Sain (name of flat region after Martoli Gwar
towards Burfu village), up to extreme right till Mapa village, you can see
large beautiful slopy bugyals. On higher
reaches of those slopes you can find sizable numbers of Bhojpatra tress, which
are well visible from Burfu village as well. This bugyal is considered as fine
grazing ground especially for horses, sheep and goat flocks; this is why during
rest period these animals are left free here for grazing. Old Raga-Paur
(Ragunath-temlpe) is situated on other side of the Burfu river and is
surrounded by raga forest, which are in significant numbers. Interestingly
these tress grows vertically compared to other naturally occurring funa of this
region. Besides this high altitude slow growth forests, there are numerous
medicinal plants found in this area. This region is also the habitat of
precious musk dear, which is in eminent danger of being extinction due to
extreme carelessness of irresponsible forest department and illegal poaching by
greedy hunters. We can proudly assert that our ancestors were more concerned
about environment (green Johar) than our present folks, they developed forest
(Ringuli-Raga trees-bushes) to protect soil erosion to avoid natural disasters.
This shows they realized the dangers of climate change and it’s affects on high
Himalayan region.
Pic. 2:
Burfu village showing the oldest and big primary school building in Johar
valley
Thrills
and festive mood:
When trade
activities were in full swing in earlier time, energy level of people of bygone
era was undoubtedly very high. The joyful mood of men, who were basically
committed to their businesses, our traders with helpers consistently worked
hard considerably with smile for the progress, welfare and advancement in
trade. There was confidence, winning attitude and zeal in their approach. They
believed, Strength is life and weakness is death! The smile, playing, dancing
and singing of children, young women’s group of Bhakhali (many homes of the
same family root), joyous mood, gossiping while going to Ghakkuli (small
temporary canals built by the villagers for running Gharats (floor mill)) to
fetch water, singing local group songs dusuka-Chachuri (folk song & dance)
till late night during Raghunath Nort (a kind of recital to seek blessings for
the well being, prosperity and safety of native people) on the eve of Raghunath
puja. After worship in the Raghunath temple Bhandara (community feast) used to
be organized. I remember men ,while they were at rest, used to take their kids
,on their back, to Kachhari (meeting place). Spinning, gossiping and joking during light moments, school
children wearing new clothes, singing songs and running towards Farpani (name
of location) to collect variety of beautiful natural flowers for celebrating
15th August. This was repeated on other occasions too. As a primary student I
participated in Prabhat-phery, it was a robust experience to raise slogans
Bharat mata kee zai! Mahatma Gandhi kee zai! Fifteen August zindabad! Those
loud sounds still echo in my ears, beautiful and inspiring remembrances and
memorable moments of my childhood, fill my heart with intense patriotism and
emotion still at this age, as if I am narrating about yesterday’s
experience. Obviously, it creates
happiness, satisfaction, sense of achievement and has generated love within the
community and to pass on the message of brotherhood, patriotism and attitude to
successive generations.
“Uth zaag Musafir bhor bhaye, ab rain kaha zo sovat hai!
Zo sovat hai, so khovat hai, zo zagat hai so pavat hai!”
Leader of
the liberation movement Gandhi was recognized as a guide, preacher and truly
practical who applied non violence as a tool against Great Britain’s dominant
military power. The world witnessed the victory with astonishing eyes and
nomenclature of new weapon “Non violence”, which was thus justified remarkably.
This mantra was practiced across the world. South Africa is a burning example
where Nelson Mandela could save his country from bloodshed. In my village
Burfu, the following lines were sung in appreciation and promotion of non
violence.
“De di hamein aazaadi bina khadag bina dhaal
saabaramati ke sant toone kar diya kamaal
aandhi mein bhi jalati rahi gaandhi teri mashaal
saabaramati ke sant tuune kar diya kamaal“
Sri
Krishna zanma ashthami, the religious festival was also celebrated with great
fanfare at village burfu. Krishna dola was taken in malla burfu to every door,
children chanting Lord Krishna bhajan, fasting women used to offer flowers and
faral (a kind of food prepared by the fasting ladies) to lord Krishna. This
procession used to finally reach primary school big hall where kirtan used to
be performed by the ladies and school children throughout the night. Whole
program used to be conducted earlier by Krishna Nand Joshi, a primary teacher
in our village, and later on by Dham singh, who had joined school after joshi
was transferred with youth club members particularly Shankar sigh nick named
doctor, lachhman padhan, and other contemporary youth. I can never forget those
moments of my early life which makes me emotional and reflects enjoyable
environment. In spite of the fact that trade was not less than adventure sports
and risky mountaineering, however, they happily accepted the challenges to
tackle over risk perception in order to make Trans-Himalayan trade worth
enjoyable and profitable. In fact, our traders were business travelers and
loved, enjoyed profession, thus creating constant waves of positive energy and
goodwill within the fraternity. This was the main cause of their happiness.
When I look in to my childhood, I admire almighty and our ancestors to have provided
us the spirit, dedication, enthusiasm and commitment to survive, even in the
odd situations,
Mass exodus of population inevitable, but,
our elders had carefully preserved nature’s precious gifts. Diminishing species
of rarely found herbs due to excessive extraction and poaching of wild lives
have led to defacing of natural beauty of Johar valley, as well as the entire
Himalayan region. As we know Growth of trees and plants are very slow because
of severe cold and heavy snow fall in the entire high Himalayan region, forests had been
destroyed to the great extent in these areas just after the china-India border
conflict, migration was experienced to the maximum level. In some of the
villages, as a result houses were demolished for the purpose of supplying firewood to the security forces by the local
contractors who were responsible to turn some of the villages in to ghost
villages. This was clearly tangible during seventy’s when we frequently visited
Johar valley, even during that time when most of the houses of other villages
in the vicinity got demolished as owner of buildings had shifted to other
places for alternate means of livelihood. These ghost villages realized me to
understand the contemporary uncertain mindset of traders. Ancestor’s houses in
Burfu and a few other villages could not be damaged to the extent,
comparatively to other villages in the vicinity. Siguli, bhujan and ragan could
be saved. Simultaneously; we could protect rare species of herbs and snow line
wild lives from total extinction because of proper watch by the villagers.
However, it was not possible in winter when families were shifting to lower
areas. Snow line rarely found animals take shelter during winters in the lower
line forest, near the villages developed by the respective Village Panchayats,
since early times. Credit goes to early settlers and their well thought forest
conservation mechanism and process continued by successive generations. As the
Trans Himalayan region being a leeward side the growth of flora/trees in this
area (low precipitation area) is very slow. We have the example of Singuli,
where growths of some of the trees are horizontally parallel to the ground,
instead of vertical growth. Hence its horizontal growth becomes like a net and
prevents stones and boulders falling down further, thus protecting properties
and loss of human lives.
Pic. 3: Flock of sheep moving towards Johar valley bugyal
Erased
real pearl of nature! -- I have seen how mercilessly growing trees were fell and cut into pieces,
they cannot express the sorrow. In fact, we do not understand expressions. It
is true that trees cannot express sorrows like human beings, and these
bhozpatra trees (found in high Himalayan ranges, used as paper in early times,
mentioned in ancient religious books about its utility besides being habitat of
rarely found precious musk deer) tree trunk, in pieces, were being sold to
security forces for firewood showing as old and useless trees by contractors
conspiring with greedy persons belonging to the same village, I am referring
the case of another village where we had gone for knowing about the fate of
village after close of Tibet trade. Beautifully wooden carved doors and
windows, after buildings were demolished were sold for meager amount.
These age old and heritage
structures shall never be viewed by the descendents. Role of people involved in
this nefarious act has created anguish and sorrow on the new generations, those
beautiful houses were destroyed and now they can only create anger for the
damages for which their ancestors sweated to build amazing buildings in this
remote and difficult area, with fine wood and stone carving, notably by
contemporary local craftsmen, their desire was to construct beautiful houses
for cozy living for families. It is unfortunate that many villages in Johar
valley were converted into ghost villages. Burfu and a few other villages could
be saved to a great extent due to migration of lesse number of families.
Descendents and history will never forgive this generation for negligence and
being helpless in protecting art and culture. I surprise there was no sincerity
shown by the officers of security forces as well. They should have been border
people friendly and cared to protect locked houses of historic importance and
nature’s beautiful gifts. It is understood they look after the international
border, helping the inhabitants and safeguarding their valuables in border area
villages. I am surprised their sincerity deficit in protecting public property
in the early years of deployment just after the close of trade due to
Indo-China border conflict. Presently ITBP is sincerely involved in making
green valley through plantations. Notably ITBP has initiated other programs as
well, like medical care to border people, working on many other public benefit
schemes in the high Himalayan villages bordering china, helping administration
in the event of natural disasters on rescue operations and encouraging youth
for adventure sports besides discharging its own pious duty defending the
border in a difficult and critical odd situations.
Pic. 4: Upper Tola village, almost deserted, turned into ghost village
Ancestors connect green earth-- It gives me immense pleasure that our
ancestors took pain to conserve forest and expand forest area to protect the
village from any eventuality which may endanger the very existence of village.
Burfu village is situated in the middle of Johar valley. Here Burfu Gar (river)
meets Gori Gar (river). Village is consists of two sub groups, talla burfu
belonged to Burfals and Malla burfu settlers are Jangpangi people. Threat
perception due to natural calamity was more in malla burfu as it was situated
at the root of back ground hills, hence fear of land erosion, frequent falling
of boulders created anxiety among the early settlers of malla burfu. In order
to protect village from inevitable disasters they decided to conserve the
singuli, bhujan and ragan and expanded the size of the green area, for
maximizing forest area, plantation had to be done vigorously. They focused on
evaluating mechanism to protect our village; at the same time it was felt that
forest should be protected from dangerous and notorious elements that are bound
to erase nature’s precious treasures. Developing forest, bushes, shrubs and
green areas became ultimate goal of early settlers and wished coming
generations should definitely make consistent efforts to preserve native
species from the danger of extinction. Early village people decided to execute,
what was planned and decided by consensus of community elders. Burfu village
could only be protected from soil erosion, landslides and floods when village
folks work effectively on making green singuli & ragan and enlarge green
area awareness program with the support of villagers. Harnessing the expertise
of experienced people who had acquired significant knowledge on the basis of
their experience, delivered their services to develop and expand green area.
Thus, in later years, progress was visible and there was a complete
transformation of our forest. The enlarged singuli and ragan with greenery
shows if people determine and work accordingly they can achieve anything. Our
elders have proved this to happen by their extreme will power. This was why, it
was possible to stop cracks on sloppy heights, frequent falling down of
boulders and arrested other related hazards. In order to keep beauty of nature
and conveying a massage to successive generations, make village green,
pollution free environment and ensure secure future and destiny or what we call
today “The sustainable development”. Today’s youth of our community need to
take the responsibility. Our ancestor’s active participation is commendable in
the absence of infrastructure. However, they successfully accomplished
difficult task. This was unimaginable! This was admired around the area,
inspired by the success of Burfu village, the same program was adopted in
surrounding villages as well, and therefore, slogan green and clean village
became popular in the Johar valley.
Green sense—move no.1--Here I wish to mention
about one lady climber Ms Bisht from pauri Garhwal who climbed Mount Everest,
loved mountaineering, her passion in mountaineering brought her nearer to nature
and she became a nature lover. From the core of her heart she was pained to see
the disturbances in the high Himalayan ranges and felt the danger of excessive
crowd in glacier tracking, mountaineering and other adventure sport activities
permitted by government. This caused garbage problems (scattered in the
entire), once the virgin area of glaciers and bugyals (grass lands) started
turning in to vulnerable area. If crowd goes on increasing forests and other
valuable species will be at peril, damages have already been done. She realized
the disaster in Himalaya is being invited by human mistakes, which seem to be
eminent and inevitable. Imagine the consequences! Being an inhabitant of
Uttarakand, what I could understand from the news paper article, she herself
started awareness program to limit the events in the Himalayan region. We know
global warming due to climate change may affect our glaciers from shrinking
faster. Therefore, she with her own efforts set up nursery, growing local
plants in her nursery found in high altitude, suited to environment and started
distributing among the hill people of these areas to grow. It was a noble
effort to inspire others for coming forward in her damage control crusade. Her
love for the Himalaya and endeavor to protect it is commendable. Being a woman,
her sensibility towards snow line areas fragile biodiversity can be understood
by the fact that we cannot stop movement completely for the sake of economic
reasons and to carry on such activities which will enhance income of local
people. Her exercise, holy in nature and keeping in mind, a safe future of
successive generations must be admired and supported.
Pic. 5:
Unforgettable grass lands with clouds in Johar valley
Move on.
2--The famous
mountaineer and Padma Sri & Arjun awardee late Hukum Singh Pangtey, who
climbed almost all top peaks of the world, except Mount Everest (though he
successfully led ITBP’s women Everest expedition mission), had always thought
of sustainable environment concept. Mr Pangtey led many national &
international mountaineering expeditions across the world; while on those
expeditions they used to bring back the garbage and waste materials like tin
and plastics and used to educate the locals as well as the fellow mountaineers
on ill effects of those left over at that high altitude area, which can have
very disastrous repercussions on those fragile ecosystems in long run. His contribution cannot be ignored in the
present context when intellectuals, civil societies and environmentalists are
expressing deep anxiety and agitating about the human rush in high Himalayan
glacier areas in the name of Adventure Tourism. It is also the duty of these so
called nature and adventure lovers to conserve the nature for future
generation. Each and every act of Human Beings to its Mother Nature will affect
the lives of future generation. Late Hukum Singh Ji, belonged to the last
village, Milam, in Johar valley of North Eastern part of Uttarakhand state of
India (Close to Indo-China border near Teen Dhura Pass). He was not only the
jewel of India in mountaineering but also a guide, motivator to young aspirants
in mountaineering and a shining star of Johar valley.
Pic 6: Panchachuli Range lovely view from Dandadhar Munsiari, as if it
is challenging mountaineers to conquer. Despite many efforts by the different
expedition teams it remained a virgin peak until sixties when a team lead by
Shri Hukum Singh scaled the submit (as claimed by ITBP)
Daring
move no.3-- I will avoid writing about internationally famed geological explorers as
already many articles in detail have been written with significant substance
time to time. We have the example of most daring and exemplary effort shown by
the group of illiterate women of a village in border district of Chamoli in
Uttarakhand state who hugged trunk of the trees and challenged the local
contractor to stop indiscriminate cutting of trees in the name of development.
They told the contractors to cut them first before cutting the trees. This
behavior of local women’s not only shocked the contractors but also the local
administration. Soon this moment spread in other parts of the district and
caught the attention of media & the government. This unique method adopted
by these brave women was given nomenclature Chipko-Andolan. It was an obvious
repercussion as these villagers had
taken care to grow these forest like their own children. They obtained
worldwide recognition, support and sympathy. The local administration and the
Govt. System are also responsible for forcing villagers to move to such an
extent. Some of the non-government agencies are also started green movement, I
doubt, whether they are performance oriented or not. Their working and output
require proper scrutiny.
Adventure trade and thrills--when
I remember my childhood, hectic life, migration, goat and mule transport system
available during those days for migration and Tibet trade, flocks of sheep
belonging to traders families, celebration of festivals, national festival 15th
August and so on, I feel very nostalgic. Trans Himalayan trade was the main
focus of our livelihood as our entire economy was based on Tibet trade. Since
Tibet business was very tedious and adventurous job, traders had to be very
regular and involve themselves throughout the year. They were the real business
travelers. They preferred adventurous job, high Himalayan climate suited them
most. Ladies of Johari families needed fine quality wool found in goats and
sheep of Tibetan origin. Basically spinning and weaving work was done for the
family requirement. Since we were living in high altitude area, traders had to
travel through those high altitude passes and climatic conditions. Hence woolen
cloths were required. Hence homemade woolen clothes suited them most to save
from extreme cold. Besides clothes, nights had to be passed with homemade
woolen blankets (Thulma, Pankhi and Pasmina in local parlance) to protect them
from freezing wind and climate. Beautiful carpets and komol for women were also
made of wool. A few remote villages have still kept this tradition and its use
alongside spinning and weaving work. Most of the Johari women have stopped this
carpet weaving work and making woolen products even for home use. It is very
disappointing and disturbing fact. But we can’t blame our women’s as with time
every society changes, education brings new avenues for life. We are recognized
on the basis of our language, dress and traditional work. Unfortunately it is
diminishing, time does not seems to be far when our Johar Shauka tribe
(population wise, a tribe small group within the Bhotia community) will be
remembered as a lost tribe if immediate remedial and revival awareness program
is not started vigorously by the community itself and if we wish our community
to survive, inter group unity, interaction, sharing of thoughts and
experiences within the community is
essential, otherwise, we are making difficult to be recognized as a Johar
bhotia tribe by way of changed life style,
behavior and lack of affection within the fraternity, which ultimately
threaten our coexistence. Our forefathers worked so hard on those inhospitable
climatic conditions and still conserved the tradition and values. My request to
this generation is to conserve the tradition, language, art and culture of our
tribe.
Coming back to the trading time
our women started producing more products and these items were being sold in
the trade melas, for their pocket expenses, by family traders, how busy they
were before mela as finished items were to be sent to mela for sale. It was
women’s job; there was much competition among the neighborhood families about
the quantity and quality of products.
Finished items like carpets, pasminas, pankhis, pattu (tweeds), blankets
and thulmas were sold in Jauljibi commercial mela which was organized by Ashkote
Rajvar in mid November every year. Besides this other commercial melas like
Uttrayani mela Bagser (Bageshwar) in mid January and Thal mela in mid April,
were held annually before moving to Munsiari along with family. It was
interesting to know how the carpet weaving and the instruments used were,
rather than importing from Tibet, modified as per the convenient to our women
folk, who were particularly engaged in cottage industry, so that the products
manufactured are attractive, durable and as per customers choice. Shauka women
were doing this work out of their hobby earlier, since this was popular in
trader’s families. In fact later on after the close of Tibet trade this very
work happened to a source of income for many needy families.
Accept change, a natural
process--As change is inevitable according to the changing trend around us,
those who do not wish for change get lost in the crowd of commoners. Our
community has the potential to perceive the circumstances and act accordingly
to win over the challenges. Once trade got closed, some of the traders
considered they need to shift to other places for livelihood and settle down
for betterment of the families in a completely changed scenario. They also
desired children shift their choices towards services. It was call of the time
too. Thus a few families remained in Munsiari area and out of remaining
families, Burfu village and a few other villages like Mapa, Pachhu, Khalyach
experienced migration in significant numbers. Post chino-India conflict period,
migration is seen in a different context, change in the purpose of migration,
families who were migrating to high Himalayan villages anticipated cultivation
of buckwheat, potato, dhunwar, and many other types of herbs and plants may be
profitable as cash crop. Hence agriculture was considered to be adopted as a
profession in a new changed environment, where there seemed to be no future of
Tibet trade. During trading time, agriculture was never considered seriously as
a good source of income in our village and the valley. Circumstances compelled
us to adopt agriculture in a new environment but with a difference i.e. cash
oriented crops (cash crops) in rapidly emerging competitive marketing scenario.
Their income from cash crops improved considerably. It was also felt there is
enormous scope to cultivate costly herbs if the villagers are provided
technical knowhow from the government, there was a possibility of huge earning
for high altitude farmers. Since extraction is done without proper scientific
method, there is no systemic guidance from the government as well, many of the
valuable, precious plants and herbs are at the verge of extinction and hundreds
of species have already vanished due to negligence and apathy of government and
extraction of herbs by unskilled laborers destroying rare species of valuable
flora. Complete lack of coordination among the various government agencies
caused huge losses in the earning of agriculturists.
Administration needs to change
attitude--Officials are reluctant to visit high Himalayan villages to study
ground level realities as a result nature suffers and ultimately the human
beings. Poachers, outsiders who inter illegally in these remote prohibited
areas are responsible in destroying the habitat of snow line rare animals, such
elements involve in illegal, immoral activities when families shift downwards
to Munsiari. Even the NGOs took large benefits from the government and agencies
but did nothing to educate and train local cultivators in the development of
high altitude farming and to increase income of border farmers. Whatever
progress the farmers have made is because of their own efforts. We feel
government is not serious and sensitive to protect nature’s precious gifts. Now
purpose of migration is not the trade as in the past, it is cultivation of cash
crops, growing high cost herbs and plants. Descendents of these villages that
have settled outside, express deep desire to visit their forefathers’ native
places since they possess immense love for ancestor’s native place and other
nature lovers, mountaineers, glacier trekkers. When spirited new generation
visit they are pained to see some of the villages have turned in to ghost
villages. A few families migrate to these villages; however, present generation
is focusing on turning these villages across the valley into an environment
friendly, wealth generating places. I am using the word wealth creator as
traditionally we have been traders. We have been witnessing unusual behavior of
the nature. In recent years, more frequently, due to excessive exploitation of
natural resources we are witnessing environment crisis and recent natural
disasters are just the warning signs. Hence, we need to emphasis on sustainable
development-sustainable biodiversity.
Identity fear pressure. No doubt
we have accepted the global village concept meaning we must adopt good things
of other communities and nationalities, it is the call of the time but not at
the cost of erasing our own identity. We need to acquaint our future
generations with truthfulness about our ancestral routes, challenges,
contemporary social life, and contribution in social activities, economic
conditions, political understanding, culture, values and education. Our
ancestors had evolved a system and mechanism and wished, down to generations,
efforts should be continued to preserve distinct identity of Johar Bhotia
tribe. Now we feel new generation seems to be quick in reacting and want
immediate response, wherever they are confused, we need to convince them, they
have many questions those answers they want from the society. Hence the role of
parents is very crucial; they should start gradually educating about our own
identity. I wish to share my own experience that my youngest child, when she
was merely a student of 6th standard, started creating a feeling of being
different group. When she was growing up, she realized the difference in
language she was listening while I was discussing with wife using native
language in private discussion at residence. She observed, we are a different
ethnic group different from other people. During my posting in hills, she
started asking me, papa, what is our identity? Her curiosity was based on
queries from her new classmates, since frequent transfers, change of place and
admission of children’s in different schools, her curiosity increased. I
responded that we are a small bhotia tribe group from Johar valley,
Munsiari of district Pithoragarh, bordering Tibet now part of china. My sincere
wish was to differentiate our tribal group identity with other inhabitants as
well as other scheduled tribe groups across the Uttrakhand region declared by
the government of India in 1967, when Uttrakhand was under UP state. This
information helped her to acknowledge truth about identity and got convinced. She
was fine in studies and sports. My children always enjoyed the discussion
whenever I used to tell them about our community with transparency, as I was
very friendly with my children they joked about our language, dress etc. they
laughed, sometimes raised questions, at times disagreed too. Serving in LIC in
marketing I had to travel different places with family far from native place.
When they grew up they were serious about knowing about native place,
ancestors, social values, language, traditional dress, culture and so on. My
hobby was to know about the places and people where ever I was posted, besides
developing corporation’s business.
Pic 7: Burfu women in Johari Ghogor Komol (Traditional Dress) during
Shri Hari pradasani samaroh, malla dumar,Munsiari
Connect native place, my experience—Situation 1--At Agra my eldest daughter had a sense of
Johar tribe language. I always wished my
children should know about parent’s native place, custom and culture, but I
never wanted to dictate children rather I wished to create an environment so
that they become curious knowing about our community, prefer to connect
themselves to native place. I wish to narrate examples how I used skill to
create a situation which attracted my children eager to come close to understand
our people, culture and values. While taking meal I called wife to provide
vegetable (Tupkiya), daughter will come smiling with required item and would
tell me, this is your tupki. When I was
getting ready for office, changing cloths, I would intentionally call wife
again to bring my shoes (paul) in order to ensure my daughter listens, and
understands, what I mean! She comes smiling telling me here is your paul
(shoes) papa. I never wished to order, but, created an environment to encourage
children to get interested in learning our native language. Thus they were able
to know about native people and ethnic culture and language.
Pic 8: Enjoying , greenery and pollution free Munsiari while on summer
vacation on mission , look towards native place
Situation
2-- Here I wish to write about my
2nd daughter who was a bold and hard working girl during her early childhood
and was never attracted towards community, as she got her education in girl’s
college from the start till completing studies. She had her friends circle from
other communities. She started to be close to tribe people, changed her
attitude. She started going to Kautics (local melas), saw native women in local
dress enjoying folk dance and song. There was a tremendous change in her
attitude. She participated in our function at our village Dumar Malla, Shri
Hari Pradasani Samaroh organized in the memory of our social activist and
fierce freedom fighter. There are numerous other instances where our children
were happily excepting to connect themselves to ancestor’s native village and
will consider fortunate if they are able to contribute in the welfare and
development for the people of village community and valley as a whole. I
believe other parents might have applied as well. Childhood experience taught
me Johar Bhotia tribe community has never been dependent upon others, rather
this community always stood forward to be available for others welfare. We have
been basically traders, hence, our tribe group maintained people friendly
attitude.
Pic 9: View of Munsiari bazar
Situation
no.3—Even in busy
schedule I always preferred morning brisk walking, earlier jogging in the
evening playing games; sometimes I took my children with me to the stadium, so
that they also develop interest in games and sports. I used to visit frequently
high Himalayan villages, bugyals and dare to go on glacier trekking, my son
developed hobby for adventure tourism and now it has become his passion to go
on long journey to high Himalayan ranges to experience the toughness of nature,
to view the superb beauty of nature as well as to win over odd situations.
Resultant! He is so found of adventure sports, driving and photography that he
is frequently going to glacier trekking, top hills, going on long driving by
motor cycle and car. Last year, after marriage he went up to Rohtang Pass with
his newlywed wife by car, then in a different direction towards (near to)
India-Tibet border. They enjoyed Para gliding together. Besides, these places
in Himanchal Pradesh they visited various places of historical, cultural and
religious importance in Himanchal. He is an amazing and extreme traveler, found
of photography besides being truly dedicated to his profession.
Pic 10 : Admire nature’s softness as well as toughness
Pic 11: Famous bhotia dogs, security guards of shepherds, fearlessly
wandering in bugyal
We need love native place--No doubt, we have a
vibrant society, dedicated for the community welfare and development,
enthusiastic and dedicated groups of community’s endeavor led to successful
seminars organized for development and relief work in terms of monetary help to
the families of victims of natural calamities and other social activities. It
is really commendable job. It should
also be our sole purpose to avoid creating false image. In the past, Johar
youth have launched similar kind of programs in their respective villages. It
is essential to know for the youths that they are not the beginners of social
welfare schemes and other kinds of activities; however, we appreciate such
endeavor by youth for the community’s benefit and generating the feeling of
oneness. Definitely it will establish a tradition and pass on down to
generations. The current community welfare program should grow with constant,
intensity, sincerity, fervor and density of thought. After all we do not want
our identity to be lost in the crowd like many other communities who could not
survive due to adopting other groups’ culture and values and remained negligent
in growing their own culture and values, result disappearance of own identity.
We know that present time is the concept of global village, we cannot survive
being alone we have to deal with the people of different nationalities across
the world accordingly present generation
needs to be well acquainted with various country’s systems and values. But at
the same time we need to keep intact our own culture and values. Our identity
is our strength; we have the example of Israel a small country in the Middle
East surrounded by large hostile Arab countries still standing as a dominant
military power with proud, recognized as nation which does not compromise with
national integrity and identity.
I have seen in our village
Burfu, a well organized youth club was already functioning, library was
established, in order to deliver service to the community welfare, sport
promotion and entertainment. Nevertheless, due to lack of facilities in the
early period our children were deprived of encouragement. But gradually parents and elders of village
became aware of strength of imparting good education and sports encouragement;
without that children cannot perform with competence in their career.
Therefore, their sole focus was on children’s good education and orientation
towards sports, both necessary for progressive career.
Migration (mo-jaan) of burfu-villagers—in the 1st week of
october traders used to return from Tibet and as per convenience of families of
Jangpangi and Burfal they used to move to downwards towards Munsiari in the 2nd
fortnight of October in groups. Similar module in migration was adopted by
other communities as well, trade was the 1st job, thereafter, weaving carpets,
pasmana, thulma, pankhi etc. this was a household job. Finished items sold at
jauljibi commercial mela organized by Askote Rajwar, Bagsar ( Bageshwar ),
Uttrayani-Mela, lastly at Thal-Mela just before proceeding to Munsiari along
with family. In Munsiari region Jangpangi community expanded in Malla Dumar,
Ranthi, Emla and Kanalka villages and Burfal in Darati and Namjala. Here too we
had pucca houses build beautifully with fine wood crafting and stone cutting
along with sufficient agricultural land, handed over to the families on 50-50
basis (Adhiya, which was prevalent in practice before land reform was exercised
in hills) who cultivated agricultural land and took care of houses too. Mostly
families again in the month of November use to migrate towards Talla Johar.
Here same method was in practice, we owned pucca houses, being looked after by
a mitter family who took care of house as well as growing crops in agricultural
land owned by maximum families. Their job was to protect interest of mitters
(friendship) who trusted them so much. Jangpangi community expanded to Mawani
near Chhoribagar Jhalori, Bamori Bhakuna, Tingroli, Saskhet, Patet and Burfals
to Kulia and Basora in Talla Johar. Some of the Jangpangi families owned large
area of agricultural land like Rai Sahib family of Mawani, Gopi family of saskhet and Keharu family of
Tirgoly. Among other sub castes Milamwals owned huge agriculture land in many
villages of Munsiari region and downwards Munsiari region. In the month of
April families were starting to return to Munsiari according to trade timing.
In the 2nd week of May migration for Burfu used to start, shifting of families
matched with trade timing in Tibet and season. Slowly post India-china war era
situations changed and people started searching new places like Munsiari,
Madkote, Thal, Didihat, Pithoragarh and Almora for their families convenience,
business and job opportunities but after the declaration of scheduled tribe in
1967and spread of education young generation availed job opportunities and
consequently present generation decided to settle down in Haldani, Dehradun,
Lucknow and Delhi, taking in view of better career prospects for their children in future where
availability of all facilities are possible . We are happy that they accepted
the change which was a good indication of progressiveness. Similarly other
groups, scattered in many villages down to Munsiari, also started regrouping in
better places for easy access to modern education, Job and business.
- In the past most of the
families had opted for settlement nearer to forest. It was because of easily
available grass land for grazing for horses and goats which were main sources
of transport during trade period besides in winter season firewood was also
easily available in sufficient quantity, therefore, those families who were
having larger flocks of animals and easily available firewood preferred to
settle nearer to forest. Although managing trade with Tibet and migrating
families on regular basis, was a tedious job, however, our elders made this
possible by adhering to self discipline and quality of managing obstacles and
winning over jointly an example of amazing cooperation within the fraternity
since early times. One basic factor for the success of smooth migration of
families was respect for the elder’s decisions who laid down rules. It was
amazing, shifting of families and doing business in the difficult zone of Tibet
(part of china) through rough-tough-dangerous mountainous road conditions in
the remotest border area and leading a life like army movement throughout the
year with positive attitude. I wish to share my childhood memories little more
which may be relevant and interesting for someone.
Pic 12: Our parental house, Nao-Kura at Malla Dumar village, new
generation anxious to know about ancestor’s way of life
- I was hardly 5/6 years old; in 1953 I
could just understand what others are talking about. While moving from one camp
to the next camp, small children used to accompany females since they were the
last group reaching camp. 1st camp was Lilam. I was with my mother’s group.
Ladies were taking rest on the roadside almost near Lilam camp (Thaor), facing
village Pato. One old lady about 70years old, broke the silence and started
telling what she heard during her childhood from old ladies that one night villagers,
on a special occasion were in a festive mood singing, dancing and suddenly
Gorkha fauj (army) attacked. The village is situated in such a terrain that you
cannot see and hear from the distance unless reach there. Hurriedly villagers
fled towards the jungles, so that they could save their lives and valuables.
According to her, these types of attacks were frequent during those days.
Successive generations knew. It is well understood that she was telling about
17th Gorkha attacks. I am amazed that Gorkhas were courageous and proactive in
advance movement with huge attacking power. It was a dominant military power
those days. Despite the worst road conditions, Nepal Army moving on foot and
winning large areas up to Sirmaur district in Himalchal Pradesh travelling long
distances was not an easy task, they attacked frequently, history itself speaks
about their war strategy.
- Stories were common in Burfu and
surrounding villages that people had erected two-three feet high stone
structure (Panpati in local dialect) towards hill tops at certain distances to
mislead Nepali soldiers as if villagers are fleeing in that direction since
from a distance these structures looked like human beings, their creative idea
rescued people from possible physical torture and massacre. In the entire Johar
valley villages Nepali soldiers sudden attacks and their terror stories
frightened people. Subsequently this threat perception compelled construction
of Milam war house by people of Milam village, even, villagers outside Milam
also contributed, in order to prevent the attackers ( they used to take shelter
at the time of attack and through holes they fired at the enemies ), thus saved
valley from human loss. It came to my
knowledge in our village Burfu, the top of the Bhadeli Gwar (bugyal ) at the
height of approximately 15000ft height there is an old temple of Maan Devata,
it is a small stone structure temple even today. In the temple Nepali soldiers
used to offer coins and flowers during their movement. Raghunath temple was
situated on the opposite side of Burfugarh. Puja was performed by the villagers
every year, but it was conducted on different dates according to convenience of
Jangpangi and burfal communities at the same place. Since due to heavy rains
there was a flood and Raghnath temple was washed away in recent years, it is a
clear indication of climate change and global warming resulting to colossal
loss to sustainability of natural beauty. Now we have separate temples
reconstructed by Jangpangis and burfals. our youth group and women organization
of village contributed tremendously as well as jangpangi people working and
living outside financially helped according to their capacity for the
construction of temple. They plan to associate mandir committee with clean
environment- green village motto, with the help of NGOs, emphasizing on massive
plantation using local plants within the temple area and village panchayat area
changing the attitude of villagers and make them environment friendly. Idea is
to spread the massage, plant trees –save beautiful earth, don’t spoil
environment, and avoid natural calamities.
Burfal brothers also constructed separate Raghunath mandir with the
financial help from NGO and individual contributions.
- I wish to mention about a person late
Dhan Ram (dhunnu-bhedi, his nick name) who was not so popular at that time for
his hidden talent. Having natural talent, as a story narrator. Simply as a
narrator and an entertainer he used to give performance in a small group. He
only used to entertain his colleagues during migration from Dumar to Jhalori
and Bamori His brain was a store house of such stories. Since it was my early
childhood, I could hardly understand style of his ability of story-telling in
the form of local song like Tejan Bai is an extraordinary task, today I
understand Dhanu Ram should have been given due respect and recognition for his
unbelievable talent. Villagers could not harness poor man’s excellent talent in
mythological stories by heart which contained tragedy, joy, rivalry, victory
and defeat accordingly while performing changing pitch of his voice, and this
was the beauty of his narration in the form of song. An outstanding
mythological story teller who being illiterate could sing and narrate the
stories fluently in local dialect.
- During my early childhood I found there
was a tradition of nick name according to the behavior of the individual in my
village. Adjective is always added after the name of the individual like Bisunu
Chlbaj (clever), Bisunu Lato (simple and honest, s is pronounced as h), Mani
Kaptan (living luxury lifestyle), Dhunnu Bhedi (looking simple but very
shrewd). This was also popular in other villages of Johar valley. Nick name was
also used for the individual groups in the valley according to the common
nature of groups. For example Zamkai (Jangpangi tribe group) is popularly
nicknamed zamkai kow (crow), crow is considered as the most intelligent among
all birds. Totia tribe group of Johar tribe community was given the
nomenclature Tullee bhalu (bear)
supposed to be rough and tough, by heart they are decent people.
Dhamsaktu group is nicknamed as Dhamot Dupkoo (creating anger, being hyper)
likewise other tribe groups were also called by nicknames.
Pic 13: Distinct view of Singuli, way to Bhadeli gwar, clouds covering
the fearsome mountains and beautiful old primary school
A social
reformer and a man of discipline--Late kishan Singh Jangpangi s/o late Gopi, descendent of Debu, an
effective social reformer and district board member belonging to burfu was the
most respected person in the entire Johar munsiari area. Whenever people talk
about Burfu he will always be remembered for beauty and quality of the primary
school building. Although more than six decades have passed, I saw the building
still intact.
As change is the natural process.
Some customs which prevailed in the society, he urged villagers to give
up, like use of daru (alcohol) during festivals and marriages, eliminating
discrimination against harijans and empowerment to women and erasing other
social evils. It is said freedom fighter
late Hari singh Jangpangi was a great admirer and dedicated disciple of late
Kishan Singh. Rather, he was undergoing social service training under him.
Under his guidance he learnt a lot about social disparities needed to be
eliminated so that community gets rid of all kind of evils that prevailed in
the society those days. Practically he was approaching people to create
awareness about evils existing in the society and educating them to erase at
any cost. Since freedom movement had not gained momentum in the remote areas,
therefore, Kishan Singh could not involved himself so seriously, no doubt,
sentiments were developing, emotions were generating, people whispering for the
outburst of movement at any moment in the area, but out of total awareness
deficit in the area and involvement in Tibet trade, it was not possible to
accelerate people to participate in the freedom struggle which on later stage
Hari Singh Ji and other freedom fighters combined effort carried on the
crusade. Fortunately now freedom movement had spread and sentiments had gained
momentum throughout India, including our valley.
A social
activist and a fierce freedom fighter--When Hari Singh was actively evolved in
freedom movement, my effort is to bring in writing about him, so that his noble
work can be passed on down to generations. How an ordinary looking man could do
extraordinary work and could establish himself as a person of his nature a
forceful, fearless, formidable freedom fighter. Because of working experience
under the able guidance of Kishan Singh, a social reformer and an elected
public representative, Hari Singh developed the interest of social service and
sincere orientation towards freedom movement; at the same time he decided to
lead movement for social equality, erasing poverty, eliminating illiteracy and
empowering women. Late Kishanji was a tall figure in social acceptability. From
high Himalayan village Burfu we were migrating down to Munsiari village Malla
Dumar, later on some families settled permanently in Munsiari. As villages of
Munsiari were not connected with motor roads we used to travel to Munsiari from
our villages on foot. About four five ego ,when I met Trilok Singh Brijwal,
himself a freedom fighter and found him a true admirer of Hari Singh, he was so
excited and thrilled telling that Hari Da was a fearless man, many times he
objected against the ill treatment, torture and bad quality food being served
to political prisoners and refused to
eat along with other jailed freedom fighters, he raised slogans bharat mata ki
jai, inklab zindabad and suffered physical torture for raising issues inside
jails, being a true patriot he tolerated all kinds of tortures. We salute him.
Though he was small in physical structure but remained always tall in spirit,
moral values, enthusiasm and sacrifice. Late Madho Singh jangpangi and late
Nari Ram also belonged to this village. Both of them did not care about their
families and jumped in the freedom movement. We salute them too, on their
contribution for the independence of motherland. Late Hari Singh had a
financial backing of his younger brother late Prem Singh. Other two dedicated
freedom fighters volunteered to participate without taking care of their family
conditions. Families who were close to these people took care of their
families.
Pic 14: One group of Women in traditional dress participating in folk
song and folk dance competition during Hari Pradasani
Second
phase struggle (movement ) of Hari Singh—After independence Hari singh decided to
start movement against inequality, untouchability, poverty, non availability of
health care, illiteracy and women’s pitiable condition. It is a well-known fact
that most of the freedom fighters returned back to their original work after
India gained independence. Because they had joined freedom movement to see
nation free from foreign rule, hence it was natural for them to join original
occupation. Our freedom fighters had joined freedom movement on their own will
at the call of national leaders. They were not greedy people like today’s
Uttarakhand separate state movement people; this is why they are demanding all
kinds of benefits from the government for the contribution these people have
made in creation of separate state. A man of determination, having tremendous
courage Late Hari Singh of Burfu village was a leader who could make a
difference and brought many social reforms with active cooperation of village
elders for under privileged segment of society. Burfu village was regarded as a
model village in social reforms this was admitted by Johar tribe community and
well wishers of johar valley. Credit goes to our elders who anticipated and
sensed the future scenario in depth, that classless society will emerge one day
definitely. Hari Singh was a fearless and fine orator. His confidence level was
very high. Fighting against the injustice was his priority; therefore he always
enjoyed fighting against the powerful and strong reverse waves. With his active
and effective persuasion along with village elders, it was possible that Malla
Burfu harijan families were provided free land by the government for self
reliance near Josha village in Madkote area.
Pic 15: My wife (Mrs. Pratima) with a little girl who is in local dress
while looking towards the stage
Malla
burfu kachhari (community house)—In Burfu, after migration was over, traders, before heading for Tibet for
business, used to relax and gather in the kachhari (common house) for gossip
and sometimes for serious talks. It was also repeated the same way when they
were returning from successful business tour of Tibet. I remember as a little
child how parents were coming and joining gossips with little children tied
with pankhi (woolen shawl to avoid cold on their back) and spinning wool by both
hands. Primary teacher and village purohit (priest) were given for stay in the
community house along with free milk and ration (baiger in local language) one
by one by trader’s family. Traditionally teacher and priest were accorded
respect by all irrespective of age.
Private
kachhari at Malla Burfu (high altitude
border village), Malla Dumar (low Himalayan village) and Saskhet (Talla Johar)
of Late Nar sing (descendent of Narsinga and s/o Debu)—the most respected
person of his time Nar Singh ji family had constructed kachhari for the
convenience of people who were coming to solve their disputes in order to avoid
long legal process. Although there was no government recognition, however,
people preferred to take shelter in Nar Singh bubu’s kachhari, it was
understood decision will be binding on both sides and will be respected by both
the parties, decision was always given in favor of sufferer or victim without
prejudice. Our family was a leading
business family. Those days mules, being the only means of transport and
riding. In one incident a horse of late Kundan Singh Brijwal (he was deaf) was
coming from opposite side on way to Johar from Munsiari (this horse was used
for riding and race). On the way the horse panicked and dashed and fell on the
river (gorigarh). There was no trace of
horse. The owner put blame on other co traveler on that route of causing this
incident as the horse got panicked while being honked by other people. This
case happened to be decided by Narsingh bubu, he listened and gave his verdict,
replacement of horse and both the parties agreed. This was an impartial
decision.
Pic 16: Late Nar Singh Bubu’s age old famous Kachhari building, now in a
bad condition
In
order to educate about early settlers of Johar valley villages, social life of
our ancestors, it is essential to go thoroughly right from ancient period up to
pre India-china war of 1962 era and thereafter. There is a positive sign that
we find in younger generation who are leading new life styles are earnestly
willing to know about their ancestors, they visit their villages and express
deep concern and communicate with friends through face book, twitter about
almost vacant villages, broken houses, excessive extraction of costly
herbs and plants. There are no proper norms being applied by responsible
government agencies. Hence most of the herbs and plants are at the verge of
extinction, it seems outsiders are spoiling natural habitat of snow line
animals and turning beautiful grass lands (bugyals) into unrepairable condition
and damaging environment. It is true, those families which are still migrating
to High Himalayan region in Johar valley need encouragement, motivation in
terms of monitory help (incentive), special subsidy in essential commodities
and road connectivity-telephone connectivity from the state and central
government. Although in Burfu village number of migrating families are
considerably much more than rest of the villages in Johar valley. Their
confidence level is high, but, their main complaint is government is not
sensitive about their genuine problems and indifferent attitude of the
authorities towards border villages where they act as unpaid guards standing
firmly on the border lines defending country from unpredictable China. Since we
have witnessed back stabbing in border conflict of 1962, hence china cannot be
trusted.
Burfu youth club— Is the present generation fully aware of our community? In the past
each village had their organizations of various kinds for the unity,
cooperation and strength of village. As far as our Burfu village is concerned I
remember in the middle of village, there was a youth club house bifurcating
Malla and Talla Burfu. It is said Burfals settlted earlier and Jangpangi people
stepped in later on. Every evening volley ball game was played in front of club
house. Football ground was near Kali mandir towards way to Milam. In my ears
still echo playful activities counting sounds, 1-2, service change, of
Lachhaman Padhaan, a jolly person who used to act as referee, sometimes playing
as well; there used to be big rush inside the club and outside. Matches were
organized. Teams from nearby villages occasionally participated in friendly
matches. Contemporary youths like Rajendra Singh, Munna Singh, Manohar Singh
(mani), Manohar Singh, Laxman Singh, Bhawan Singh, Shankar Singh, Gobardhan
Singh Burfal, Durga Singh Burfal, Dham Singh, Shyam Singh Burfal etc. Among
these some were traders who had move earlier to Tibet for business. The impact
of sports activities was that sports became very popular among youth down to
generations.
Previous
generations were also participating in games in Tibet (Gyanima Mandi) with
other village teams of Johar valley, who were there for trade. It was a means
of maintaining unity in the subgroup within the Johar tribal community, no
matter, wherever they are. Those elders have contributed tremendously in
promoting sports and games in the remotest border area, anticipating the future
generation’s career in sports and games. They were natural role models for new
generations. The enthusiasm among the youth as mentioned above was tremendous.
While in Almora, I met an old man who was a soccer player. He was friend of my
eldest brother late Manohar Singh Jangpangi (mani da). Both were team mate of
Ramjay School (Almora) football team. They together participated in many
football matches outside Almora and won matches. Pressure from home to join
family trade forced our elder brother (mani dada) to discontinue his study and
join family. Though, initially he was reluctant to join the business. In order
to expand business our family firm M/s Nain Singh Soban Singh, our family
needed a young, talented family person to take over the charge of business, as
it was not possible for uncle late Kundan Singh to conduct the day today affairs
of the business due to his deteriorating health and he was already looking
after Thal Valley business. Later my Uncle expired. Hence a lot of negativity
& rumor surrounded the business. Mani dada was the only choice for the
elders, but it was a blunder for him to leave Almora, a painful decision, which
completely changed his destiny to a disastrous end. Although after joining
family trade, he was doing fine even uncertainty prevailed in business
environment in Johar Valley. Elders hoped business will continue, as most of
the affluent traders of johar valley expected, but, it was not true. Brother
too wished to complete studies and seek suitable service so that he could
harness talent and creativity in order to give good results in the space of his
choice.
Shri Rajendra Singh Jangpangi, S/o late
Kishan Singh Jangpangi (a social reformist and member of district board Almora)
who retired as honorary captain from 3rd Kumaon, used to teach us English and
encouraged for games. He was very active in social activities whenever he used
to come on annual leave in Burfu village. I did not know much about him since
migration had stopped and his family preferred to settle in Saskhet down to
Munsiari near Thal (Didihat), as they owned large agricultural land in many villages.
I wish to mention about my meeting (I was senior branch manager in Almora) with
Naib Subedar Bhakuni, father of LIC agent B.S.Bhakuni. Incidentally he also
belonged to 3rd kumaon, he narrated about Raja kaka and appreciated his work as
JCO and retired as honorary Capt. Because of his knowledge power he was popular
figure in the battalion, respected and loved by jawans. According to him, he
always assisted lower ranks whenever they needed help, officers also considered
him as an asset to the regiment. Affection, admiration and reputation that he
earned in his work place gave me a feeling of pride because he belonged to our
community. Tremendous popularity that he gained touched me emotionally, and
understood that he is man of positive approach and a man of dedication having
immense zeal and motivating power.
I wish to mention name of late Manohar Singh
Jangpangi (mani kaka) s/o late Prem Singh Jangpangi, he also joined Army. He
was a strong defender (football) and represented Delhi cant in many major tournaments.
Within the army he was a recognized soccer player. Group photos displayed in
his parental house in Dumar village (Munsiari) shows the stature of player. In
the army he got an opportunity to excel in football. After retirement Mani kaka
could not contribute in promoting soccer since he shifted his family to Nolara
village near Thal. His family also owned lands around village Nolara. Here I
want to clear that families, belonging to Saskhet village (near Thal), Tirngoli
(near Thal) and Bamori village (inside Nachani about two kilometers along
Bhujgarh (River)) have got the same ancestral root. Originally combined family
had dwelling at Patet (Thal) with large agricultural lands, which were given to
cultivators for harvest, as migration was frequent due to India Tibet trade.
During that time there were no proper facilities available, however, on their
own efforts they arranged play ground and motivated juniors of village to play
games and excel in games of their choice. That is why village produced many
notable players who represented their schools, colleges and departments. In the
similar fashion then youth of other Johar villages had their own clubs and were
organizing games, cultural activities.
Burfu-library—It is unbelievable such an old library was maintained by then young
members of club in Burfu village, when there was no such environment of
visiting library and availability of huge reading materials that I saw in the
library more than six decades ago. Yes, it was made possible due to ceaseless
efforts of young dedicated members in spite of busy business schedule
throughout the year. Collection of standard books reveals about their thoughts
and willingness that future generation should grow intellectually. Their vision
was a healthy mind in a healthy body. I have gone through English version of
kumaon history and numerous other valuable books, since, after the close of
India-china trade, some persons unknowingly destroyed materials of historical
importance including buildings (having amazing stone and wood carving by the
local craftsmen). I particularly request to all, belonging to Burfu village and
those who have shifted elsewhere for livelihood, if they have any knowledge of
books pertaining to library at Burfu with library stamp or other valuable
documents related to library set-up, please do favor by informing us with full
details or return to Shri Gokarn Singh Janngpani, retiree from army, or to any
youth worker who is migrating still to Burfu, under intimation to us so that we
may find out about the history of Burfu library. We wish to collect relevant
information related to Burfu library so that supportive evidences may lead us
to know about motive of library opening, persons instrumental, initiators,
stimulant elements and collection of books. We wish to recognize those people
who actualized the dream.
Entertainment-
Inside the library building a space, verandah was made available for music
lovers. When I was a small child, two names come to my mind both were
handicapped having one arm very weak and another one hand cut from wrist, they
were good singers too. Late Vinod Singh Jangpangi had one arm very weak, but,
he was an excellent harmonium player and very melodious singer. He belonged to
reputed Rai Sahib Family owning huge agricultural land in different villages
and famous business family of burfu village. Padma Sri late Laxman Singh
Jangpangi belonged to this family. Late Vinod Singh was free from family a
responsibility, that’s why, he diverted himself towards music and cultural activities.
Another person late Harmal Singh Burfal, a handicapped, was expert in Dholak.
They had not taken formal training in musical instruments and singing but they
were god gifted musical instrument players and singers. Listeners enjoyed music
for considerable time in spite of cold. On the field volleyball game was
played, in the verandah music lovers were enjoying songs and inside room
reading by those who liked reading books for enhancing knowledge. A lovely
combination! Happiness, positive environment and positive vibration flowing.
However, there was zeal and sense of spirit to deliver to the society with
smile.
Education-spread — Our society always gave importance to education since they considered
education as an asset for progress. Late Kishan Singh Jangpangi, member
district Board, was instrumental in the construction of primary school in Burfu
village. School building divides the village Malla Burfu and Talla Burfu.
School building is still intact and never required repairs. It is a large
building still intact and probably the oldest school building during forty’s of
20th century. According to season and
convenient of families school was also migrating to Munsiari and then to Talla
Johar. Elders had arranged a girl’s school at Burfu. It was to promote
education among the girls, since; they knew empowering female first means
impart education. As there was no provision for further education, therefore
those who could afford expenditure they started sending their children to
Almora or elsewhere. This was possible because of some families’ futuristic
approach.
Pic 17: Old days girl’s primary school in Burfu village
Friendly relationship (Mitteram) Matters—During my Childhood, mid 1950s and earlier,
our family’s Tibetan mitter (business friends ) used to come to Burfu with goat
flocks, as soon as we received information about their arrival, we were rushing
to receive them on the way. On metting we were shaking hands greeting with
Tibetan word Kham-Zang (hello) thereafter, we used to accompany them to reach
to the place where their stay was arranged. Trader class of Johar Valley had
adopted skillful methods in order to carry on their business activities
successfully and smoothly in dacoit prone Tibet region. Therefore, traders
community within the Bhotia tribe of Johar valley developed friendly
relationship (mitteram ) with the individual families, according to size of
their business so as to make movements in these areas easy to penetrate even in
deep hostile and dangerous region in Tibet. They were considerably trustworthy
similarly; they used to come to Indian side with flocks of goats loaded with
wool and other items. Business was done on exchange of goods rates decided by
empowered team of Tibet and Johar valley nominated traders and trade was
declared open at Milam after the agreement. I really appreciate brain
application of our earlier traders for converting difficult business zone in to
business friendly comfort zone. Nevertheless, the fear of dacoits could not be
eliminated; time and again such incidents of robberies did happen, however,
confidence level of traders always remained high. This was why business could
be continued till china-India conflict. Trader’s class of Johar valley enjoyed
the life and profession. Undoubtedly, elders skillful thought process brought
into action made trade comfortable and convenient to a great extent and became
a deciding factor helping business to grow effectively down to generations
which changed the destiny of traders, till China India conflict. Our elder
traders understood developing relationships matters!
As I have already mentioned in my earlier writings that selected families in
each village of Johar valley were engaged in trade with Tibet in a systematic
manner, even, some small villages which were not dealing in business with
Tibet, however, their participation was in other forms. All though trade with
Tibet was not a task of bed of roses, it was full of risks. Crossing eighteen
thousand high mountains along with horses and goats the main means of
transport, loaded with valuable items for sale in Tibet was tiresome, difficult
and unbelievable business journey. I remember, during childhood, various
stories about barbarous acts of notorious, cruel and inhuman robberies in Tibet
were narrated to us, when I look back to childhood memories, my father used to
tell me that, we had a permanent shop in Tibet at Rudok in Tibet, our employee
was looking after business. M/S Nain Singh Soban Singh, Burfu, our business
firm suffered a huge financial loss and had been a victim of robberies twice.
Dacoits in groups looting from southern eastern Tibet sweeping and moving
towards western Tibet and returning back whoever met on the way looting them,
if resisted were massacred and their valuables looted.
Capt
(Dr.) Darwan Singh Jangpangi was son of Jawahar Singh, first cousin of father,
had joined Royal Indian Army, who participated in 2nd world war in
the western sector. Their division had moved Middle Eastern up to Italian
fronts, Durga Das then war correspondent has mentioned in his book that he has
seen the famous 10th Indian Division in action. Mussolini the
dictator and an ally of German dictator Hitler had to surrender to allied
forces, being from medical profession uncle was deputed for the Prisoners of
War (PoW) camp in Italy. Whenever there was discussion on 2nd World
War, Uncle always regretted that he could not move further, he missed the
chance. After retirement doctor sahib settled at Almora, his father wanted
uncle to come home and serve the poor people who really needed medical help and
care, for family reasons it could not be possible. On this indifferent decision
his father was very disappointed.
It
is a fact doctor sahib was a man of discipline; he helped those students from
the family who followed his instructions. After all it was in the interest of
family students. I wish to mention a few names like Sri Pushkar Singh
Jangpangi, Inder Singh, Kharak Singh and others all made significant progress
in their professional career, who got education under his guidance and
supervision. He also wished to establish educational foundation in his name for
the poor students of Jangpangi fraternity just before his death, as we heard.
This scheme could not be materialized due to his death. It is said, he had arranged
initial amount too.
Dolma
Dolkar writes-- Traders were never
afraid of dangers in business, rather, they accepted as a challenge which
created vibrations of optimistic views in their thrilling job. The law and
order situation in Tibet in the early times was indeed the worst; this fact is
justified by Dolma Dolkar, the first Tibetan lady, who went out of Tibet to
study in Darjeeling and got exposer of outside world. In her book, a Daughter
of Tibet, she wrote with the help of two European writers, she clearly admits
about the administrative mess in Tibet. Areas were sold to the highest bidder
and were given free hand to run their areas; no systematic administrative
set-up was visible anywhere in Tibet. People’s welfare programs completely
neglected, therefore, development planning and proper execution was not visible
and noticeable. Religious head as well as the king was concerned about revenue
and bidders were concerned only about their profit. However, besides all odd situations
risk of live, fear of robbery, difficult terrain, health hazard and
unpredictable weather condition, our young traders enjoyed the life they were
leading and enjoyed the profession. They preferred adventure, Trans Himalayan
trade itself was full of adventure, and therefore, they accepted challenges of
trade. While enjoying life and enjoying profession, traders focus always
remained on creating wealth while excelling on trade patterns bringing changes
according to time to make business more profitable.
I
belong to Burfu village of Johar valley of Uttrakhand, a beautiful village
among thirteen villages of our valley. We used to have (historical) trade with
Tibet through high Himalayan Pass Teen Dhura (Three Pass: Utta Dhura, Jayanti
Dhura and Kingri-Bingari Dhura ) the most difficult pass yet very busy trade
line and Kailash-Mansarobar yatra route. Gyanima Mandi in Tibet was first trade
centre, few traders had another trade centre Gartok. Ours route is the most
difficult pass to cross over to another country for business, however , trade
continued for many decades till china’s occupation of Tibet and thereafter
china-India border clash. In my childhood I have seen during Tibet business our
family had a good presence and was visible in the entire valley.
Environment
connection-- I appreciate understanding of early settlers (tribe groups) in
Johar valley who sensed the dangers of environmental pollution due to excessive
exploitation of natural resources and global warming, which may cause to
natural calamities, accordingly, they initiated immediate steps like
conservation (Singuli, Bhujan and Ragan, habitat of wild high altitude animals)
of forest which they had developed earlier , extensive plantation spreading the
green area beneficial to villagers as well as to rare high altitude
animals to counter possible damages like soil erosion, floods, shrinking of
glacier. Significantly, every village developed Singuli, Bhojpatra forest
(ancient tree mentioned in religious books found in high Himalayan ranges),
Ragan (raga forest found particularly in Tola and Burfu). Since I belong to
Burfu village and have seen and observed the immediate effective measures
taken by our ancient tribe groups to save village from well anticipated hazards
despite the fact they were not educated but having huge experience of
life, certain guide lines were made necessary to abide to protect their
developed plants and old trees may be used for firewood. The same thought
process continued down to generations till cessation of Trans Himalayan trade
turned in to deserted and ghost villages; accept a few families migrating to
these villages. They endeavored to make their dream in to reality. it was
possible since our people always respected their elders in the past and their
vision, conserve the forest, spread the forest area by maximum plantation, save
the precious plants from extinction and save snow line rarely found animal’s
habitat and make Johar valley green. Trading families remained assessing the
situation. As our family had significant business interest in Tibet part of
china, therefore, I can understand the feelings of traders during that period.
Taking
the advantage of uncertain situation, some greedy persons in every village took
advantage of vacant villages and became self claimed village representatives,
engaged in destroying age old forest and selling off to security forces for
firewood. I along with friends had been to burfu village for Raga Pussai. From
there we planned to visit Milam glacier, while coming back after visiting
Milam glacier downwards Milam, we saw mules loaded with pieces of grown up
Bhojpatra trees being transported for security forces based at Milam. I was
shocked and felt these green trees have been cut by greedy people with silent
approval from security force. And asked persons why they are carrying young
tree pieces, they explained us, that supplier of firewood is a so called
prominent figure of village. These forces are no doubt, responsible to
safeguard our borders, at the same time they need to be sensible enough to
protect environment by persuading others not to become part of merciless
felling of trees in high Himalayan ranges where it takes many decades to grow
as a tree from plant. If we cannot participate in conservation of forest, we
should not become destroyers. Furthermore, during acute winter season high
altitude wild lives take shelter in the forests developed by our ancestors.
These Singulis, Bhujan and Ragan are habitat of these rare & endangered
wild animals. Like human beings we cannot guess their pain, therefore, it
becomes our responsibility to have human touch towards animals and trees.
It
was imperative to educate the villagers about natural treasure found in these
areas so that, families who are migrating to high Himalayan ranges get basic
knowledge about hazards due to environmental pollution, global warming and
excessive exploitation of nature. Medical care is essential in this remote
border region, basically it is the duty of centre and state governments to
provide such facilities and better infrastructure so that migrating families do
not face inconvenient situations. Development work should be initiated on
priority basis So that more families are attracted and motivated to migrate to
these areas as empty villages provide discouragement to the migrating people
and these deserted villages are easy access to the enemies of nature’s precious
gifts.
Visualize the difference --Now it is open secret that on the other side
of border which is considered not India friendly there is a network of mettle
roads and strong communication system deployed for rapid deployment of security
forces. There is a trust deficit; hence, border people should also be aware of
activities on the other side. No doubt, our people living in these areas are
highly spirited and motivated. These are inherent qualities in our border
people, they can generate confidence in security forces, and courageously they
shall forward to fight with enemies along with forces. Even community people
who are living in other places will rush to join the fight against the enemy.
Our valley people have always been in the forefront in the event of border
turmoil to show solidarity with the nation, our village Burfu also has a
privilege producing dedicated freedom fighters along with others giving
strength to freedom movement even from the extreme remote border of Johar
valley. The same spirit still exists.
Agriculture connect and extraction of herbs—Trading families had nothing to do with cultivation. Since we had pucca
houses in Burfu, Dumar (Munsiari) and Talla Johar and some in the vicinity
along with agricultural lands but farming was not in a priority list. Trade was
main occupation. When trade stopped then only cash crop was seriously
considered and later on migrating families emphasized on cash crop and
cultivating herbs and plants which could fetch good returns. Ultimately it paid
and turned in to main profession for migrating families. This is why we have
experienced a good number of families in Burfu have been motivated to migrate
in spite of the fact; they have to get over through numerous difficulties.
Nomati
(morning-alarm)—In village Malla Burf, our ancestors had formulated a
mechanism in the name of code of conduct so that there is no interruption in
day to day work and no complain of discipline-deficit to occur. In the
village activities started from 4PM. There was no provision of alarm system,
hence, traditionally who were already doing on other occasions were assigned to
pray the almighty and asking for good day in the form of drum beating at the
same time calling families to get up and start the day. It was a unique style.
I do not know no whether this method was being followed by other villages or
not, but, it was a routine system in Malla Burfu village. For this job the
labor cost was fixed by the elders was timely paid. I remember, how, families
were alert for Nomati Alarm.
Language
of Johari people—Since
population of Johar bhotia tribe is small and language spoken in entire Johar
valley is almost the same. It is true that hundreds of languages are vanishing
every year and many languages are at the verse of erasing. Reason is obvious,
because of changing values, culture and urbanization. People have shifted from
their native place and settled elsewhere for better business opportunities and
jobs. This effect is found throughout the world today. I have read about Iran
northern nomads, many of the families have left their traditional work and
settled in towns to impart better education to their children so that they can
seek other jobs rather than pursuing nomadic life. Their elders too wish, their
children to get rid of miserable zone and lead convenient, comfortable modern
lifestyle. Those who are continuing nomadic life they are facing inconvenient
situations on their journey, since, locals have started cultivating harvest
where they used to camp for night stay, somewhere either roads have been
diverted or covered and ask shepherd families not to use traditional
roads who used to migrate along with mules and flocks of sheep for decades
towards northern side of Iran where large grazing grounds and cold weather are
available .They say up to their life they want to carry their traditional job
but their children will not continue. In this process as I mentioned earlier
most of these families have gone to towns and cities, there they have mingled
with the local community people who are in majority. This will definitely
create identity crisis for these people in the future.
This
reminds me the same situation we were also facing while migrated to different
places in search of job, this problem was created in many such conditions,
where such migrations occurred. In Johar valley, Munsiari, Medium of education
is either Hindi or English, children naturally came in contact of others and
speak the same language. Children and adults have forgotten our own language.
Therefore it is the duty of parents to give them advise to get acquainted with
our language, culture, values and tradition so that their affection towards birth
place is developed and activated effectively and ancestors tolerating hardships
so that their descendents may lead prosperous and convenient lifestyle, may
encourage them to make tremendous efforts collectively for making glorious
future and become role model for generations to come. I wish to again mention
the example of Israel, a small country surrounded by Arab countries, this
community has suffered a lot, but their affection for Israel remained immense
no matter where they are, that was why they could save their language,
tradition and culture. Israelis had started migrating to Europe and other
countries well before the birth of Jesus Christ. Where ever they went for
better opportunities, they contributed in the economic development of those
countries as well as they flourished on account of their affirmative attitude
and hard work to accomplish task for own economic progress. Many times they
were victimized because of their hard work, the affluence Jews had achieved,
their neighborhood got jealous. Resultant world witnessed mass killings, their
businesses destroyed by the locals, but every time they stood up with same
level of confidence and zeal. Again they rose to affluence with same spirit. We
have the example of the tragic mass killings by Nazi army of Hitler the most
cruel dictator who eliminated millions of Jews in gas chambers during 2nd
world war, However ,this courageous race could not be erased by Hitler, instead
he himself disappeared from the world scene, because of winning attitude to
live life with collective thought process of Jews. They never forgot to teach
their future generations to preserve language, culture, tradition and values of
their race intact down to generations and unite them across the world, more
importantly as a group they have become more proactive, aggressive, and
progressive and performers where ever they are settled. They were too much
attached to their language, culture and values where ever they may be. Their
language i.e, Hebrew once in the verge of extinction has again revived. Thanks
to their collective efforts and sense of togetherness.
When
I look about my community, Johar Munsiari Bhotia tribe, the language we had
been speaking for last six decades, now hardly 30% of language (sauka boly) is
in use. Earlier, hundred years ago our language should have been much harder.
It pains me most, frequently used words and sentences have already vanished
from our language and new words have taken place. I have observed that till
1975 the percentage use of our language by our tribe was 70%. 1975 Onwards till
date the percentage use of our language has come down sharply. Reasons are
obvious; mostly teenagers do not use Shauka language. Service class/ retired
personnel and families settled outside their communication line is Hindi or
English according to status. Only old people and people living in remote areas
speak shauka boly. The day is not far when shauka language will be considered
under the category of disappeared language. I understand our language cannot be
the medium of education but this combines us because within the community it
works as a means of communication. On my own observation, I wish to explain
about our language and words which were/are commonly and frequently being used,
gradually new words from Hindi have taken place due to change of place and
coming in contact of other communities. Further, I noticed there is no
masculine and feminine gender like in Bengali. We also observe there is mixed
words of Nepali language, like Drink water is spoken as pani khanyo. We speak
as pani khashya. The most difficult part of our language is in many words s is
pronounced as h. For example –trouser-shutun (here s is pronounced as
h). Similarly we frequently use chh in the last as it is spoken in Gujarat. I
have illustrated a few words as below. We can understand many words have
already disappeared from use and replaced by Hindi words.
English
|
Hindi
|
Johar Boli
|
English
|
Hindi
|
Johar Boli
|
English
|
Hindi
|
JoharBoli
|
Rice
|
चावल
|
भात
|
Vegetable
|
सब्जी
|
तुप्की
|
Mutton
|
मीट
|
मासो
|
Bread/Chapati
|
रोटी
|
रव्वाट
|
Fried rice
|
जीरा चावल
|
भुमला
|
Noodle
|
नूडल
|
कुक्ला
|
Guest
|
मेहमान
|
पौन
|
Goodman
|
अच्छा आदमी
|
भल मैस
|
Badman
|
बुरा आदमी
|
गोट मैस
|
Grassland
|
चारागाह
|
ग्वार
|
Shepherd
|
गडरिया
|
अन्वाल
|
Mule driver
|
घोड़ा चालक
|
ड्याब
|
Stone
|
पत्थर
|
ढ्हुंग
|
Soil
|
मिट्टी
|
माटी
|
Flood
|
बाढ
|
ध्वाल्क्का
|
Mud
|
किचढ
|
क्च्यार
|
Rains
|
बरसात
|
झड
|
River
|
नदी
|
गार
|
House
|
मकान
|
कुरा
|
Road
|
रास्ता
|
बाटो
|
Bridge
|
पुल
|
होङ्ग
|
Old couple
|
बुजुर्ग जोड़ा
|
ढ्हेरी ढ्ह्यरा
|
Children
|
बच्चे
|
नान्तिना
|
Farm land
|
खेत
|
गार
|
Father
|
पिता
|
बबा
|
Mother
|
माँ
|
अमा
|
Uncle
|
चाचा
|
कका
|
Aunt
|
चाची
|
काकी
|
Bbrother
|
भैया
|
दादा
|
Sister
|
बहिन
|
अता
|
Boy
|
लड़का
|
छोयरा
|
Girl
|
लड़की
|
छयोरी
|
Son
|
बेटा
|
च्योल
|
Daughter
|
बेटी
|
चेली
|
Big
|
बड़ा
|
ठुल
|
|
|
|
Tomarrow
|
आने वाला कल
|
भॊल
|
Yesterday
|
बीता हुआ कल
|
बैली
|
Day by
|
परसों
|
पौरु
|
Groom
|
दुल्हा
|
ब्योल
|
Bride
|
दुल्हन
|
ब्योलि
|
Priest
|
पंडित जी
|
बाबन ज्यु
|
Shirt
|
कुर्ता
|
खील्ट
|
Trouser
|
पजामा
|
हुतोन
|
Shoe
|
जूता
|
पौल
|
Hot water
|
गरम पानी
|
तातो पानी
|
Cold water
|
ठण्डा पानी
|
ठण्डो पानी
|
|
|
|
Cury
|
कड़ी
|
पल्यो
|
Puri
|
पुडी
|
बागची
|
Jyola
|
ज्योला
|
डुपका
|
Grandfather
|
दादा
|
बुबू
|
Grandmother
|
दादी
|
अचै
|
Father’s sister
|
बुआ
|
आनी
|
Wind
|
हवा
|
ब्यार
|
Salt
|
नमक
|
लून
|
Tree
|
पेड
|
रूख
|
Fore head
|
माथा
|
कपाल
|
Head
|
सर
|
ख्वार
|
Mouth
|
मुह
|
थोल
|
Walk
|
चलना
|
हिट
|
Neck
|
गर्दन
|
गौल
|
Salty
|
नमकीन
|
लुल्योन
|
I wish to illustrate some of the sentences as
below.
Did you come just now? (elder ) तिमी ऐले ओना ?
Did you come just now? (younger ) तैए ऐले आयै ?
Who came with you? ( elder ) तिमी दाकर कु आयै ?
Who was with you? ( elder ) तिमी दागर कु छी ?
Will you go tomarrow? (elder ) तिमी भोल ज़न्हा ?
Will you go day after tomarrow? (younger ) तई पोरों जाले ।
There is plenty of snow fall in
Munsiari.— मुनस्यारी ह्यु लटपट हेरे ।
Where do your relations lives? तमर लगलाट क़ा रैनन ?
Where do you live?
तिमी क़ा रन छा ?
Who is this girl?
यों छयोरी कु हैं ?
Where is your son?
त्योंर चोल क़ा छा ?
Over
the years present generation has, either deliberately or ignorantly left using
most of the commonly spoken shauka words and replaced with Hindi words. Gradually
shauka boly is going to disappear which is one of the tools on account of
which; we are recognized as bhotia tribe of johar valley. This is protected to
some extent because of people who are living in remote, distant border villages
and they are still using our language and wearing traditional dress reminding
us to practice native language. Cloths which our ancestors used were designed
to suite high Himalayan region climate. It is unfortunate young generation are
not comfortable using johari tribe language (बोली) and wearing traditional dress which confirm
our identity and unites society. If any deterioration is visible, there is a
probability of loosing identity. There is a probability, our bhotia tribe of
johar valley will be considered as a lost tribe. We must endeavor to keep our
identity intact so that we are proud of our community. I wish various
associations will act and initiate damage control exercise immediately through
awareness programs creating eagerness among community people to know about our
culture, tradition and values. Detailed and serious thought process must be
stared and proper environment should be created. This is not the only case, there are
thousands of languages experiencing the same fate across the world. I am
personally not against the learning other important languages, but, at the same
time I wish descendents should appreciate, admire and thank their elders to
preserve Johari boly intact which will become one of the sources of
identification and medium of interaction. It will help our people to come out
of isolation, getting energy being part of a group and feeling a sense of
oneness. We have example of Israel, they love their culture, tradition and
values. Out worldly they are always at the top in generating wealth, expanding
business, participating and contributing in the development of the country
where ever they are settled.
In my opinion there is no need of starting of
so many associations and committees, which may create problems and conflicts in
near future, rather, we need to work on ground level realities and address the
shortcomings. I have remembered my village (म्यर माटी) only to attract successive young
generations to know about their ancestor’s native place (माटी ) and be proud of ancestor’s adventurous
life style, keeping in mind that our identity remains intact down to
generations.
Devender Jangpangi
Village-burfu, presently residing at
Haldwani, Uttrakhand
