BURFU VILLAGE ( म्यर माटी)

        

      I wish to write reminiscences of my childhood in few lines. Undoubtedly my sincere effort is to call for better understanding and developing a feel of oneness and cooperation so that community boldly faces all odds and Bhotia tribe of Johar region in Uttarakhand would be able to save its distinct identity. In this context I have referred my childhood memories, to describe about contemporary social values, social life and belief system which ultimately influenced younger generation and environment of fraternity and common progressive attitude was created. I sincerely wish let the community people understand, we are the fire and this energy must be harnessed for welfare of the coming generations, translate our ambitions in to reality to reach with intense desire to targeted destination, which may definitely decide future of our society. Our ancestors being business travelers, could dare to move beyond the borders and were capable to make a difference and always believed in together we are, stronger we are.

Pic. 1: Dense forest, on the background snow clad mountains. There is a need to spread message of Green cover

Village Burfu:

My Village is situated approximately 11000ft (~3200mts) height from the sea level. River Burfu (Burfu-garh) which originates from Burfu glacier meets Gori garh( river) here. Upper side of village is covered with Singuli (forest) that has horizontal growth parallel to ground level (due to high altitude climatic conditions). Fantastic grazing ground (Bugyal) spread well over Bhadeli gwar, the snow line area. On the other side of Gori River (Gori garh) from left side, fascinating Tyore Sain (name of flat region after Martoli Gwar towards Burfu village), up to extreme right till Mapa village, you can see large  beautiful slopy bugyals. On higher reaches of those slopes you can find sizable numbers of Bhojpatra tress, which are well visible from Burfu village as well. This bugyal is considered as fine grazing ground especially for horses, sheep and goat flocks; this is why during rest period these animals are left free here for grazing. Old Raga-Paur (Ragunath-temlpe) is situated on other side of the Burfu river and is surrounded by raga forest, which are in significant numbers. Interestingly these tress grows vertically compared to other naturally occurring funa of this region. Besides this high altitude slow growth forests, there are numerous medicinal plants found in this area. This region is also the habitat of precious musk dear, which is in eminent danger of being extinction due to extreme carelessness of irresponsible forest department and illegal poaching by greedy hunters. We can proudly assert that our ancestors were more concerned about environment (green Johar) than our present folks, they developed forest (Ringuli-Raga trees-bushes) to protect soil erosion to avoid natural disasters. This shows they realized the dangers of climate change and it’s affects on high Himalayan region.

Pic. 2: Burfu village showing the oldest and big primary school building in Johar valley

Thrills and festive mood:

When trade activities were in full swing in earlier time, energy level of people of bygone era was undoubtedly very high. The joyful mood of men, who were basically committed to their businesses, our traders with helpers consistently worked hard considerably with smile for the progress, welfare and advancement in trade. There was confidence, winning attitude and zeal in their approach. They believed, Strength is life and weakness is death! The smile, playing, dancing and singing of children, young women’s group of Bhakhali (many homes of the same family root), joyous mood, gossiping while going to Ghakkuli (small temporary canals built by the villagers for running Gharats (floor mill)) to fetch water, singing local group songs dusuka-Chachuri (folk song & dance) till late night during Raghunath Nort (a kind of recital to seek blessings for the well being, prosperity and safety of native people) on the eve of Raghunath puja. After worship in the Raghunath temple Bhandara (community feast) used to be organized. I remember men ,while they were at rest, used to take their kids ,on their back, to Kachhari (meeting place). Spinning, gossiping  and joking during light moments, school children wearing new clothes, singing songs and running towards Farpani (name of location) to collect variety of beautiful natural flowers for celebrating 15th August. This was repeated on other occasions too. As a primary student I participated in Prabhat-phery, it was a robust experience to raise slogans Bharat mata kee zai! Mahatma Gandhi kee zai! Fifteen August zindabad! Those loud sounds still echo in my ears, beautiful and inspiring remembrances and memorable moments of my childhood, fill my heart with intense patriotism and emotion still at this age, as if I am narrating about yesterday’s experience.  Obviously, it creates happiness, satisfaction, sense of achievement and has generated love within the community and to pass on the message of brotherhood, patriotism and attitude to successive generations.

“Uth zaag Musafir bhor bhaye, ab rain kaha zo sovat hai!

Zo sovat hai, so khovat hai, zo zagat hai so pavat hai!”

Leader of the liberation movement Gandhi was recognized as a guide, preacher and truly practical who applied non violence as a tool against Great Britain’s dominant military power. The world witnessed the victory with astonishing eyes and nomenclature of new weapon “Non violence”, which was thus justified remarkably. This mantra was practiced across the world. South Africa is a burning example where Nelson Mandela could save his country from bloodshed. In my village Burfu, the following lines were sung in appreciation and promotion of non violence.

“De di hamein aazaadi bina khadag bina dhaal

saabaramati ke sant toone kar diya kamaal

aandhi mein bhi jalati rahi gaandhi teri mashaal

saabaramati ke sant tuune kar diya kamaal“

Sri Krishna zanma ashthami, the religious festival was also celebrated with great fanfare at village burfu. Krishna dola was taken in malla burfu to every door, children chanting Lord Krishna bhajan, fasting women used to offer flowers and faral (a kind of food prepared by the fasting ladies) to lord Krishna. This procession used to finally reach primary school big hall where kirtan used to be performed by the ladies and school children throughout the night. Whole program used to be conducted earlier by Krishna Nand Joshi, a primary teacher in our village, and later on by Dham singh, who had joined school after joshi was transferred with youth club members particularly Shankar sigh nick named doctor, lachhman padhan, and other contemporary youth. I can never forget those moments of my early life which makes me emotional and reflects enjoyable environment. In spite of the fact that trade was not less than adventure sports and risky mountaineering, however, they happily accepted the challenges to tackle over risk perception in order to make Trans-Himalayan trade worth enjoyable and profitable. In fact, our traders were business travelers and loved, enjoyed profession, thus creating constant waves of positive energy and goodwill within the fraternity. This was the main cause of their happiness. When I look in to my childhood, I admire almighty and our ancestors to have provided us the spirit, dedication, enthusiasm and commitment to survive, even in the odd situations,

   Mass exodus of population inevitable, but, our elders had carefully preserved nature’s precious gifts. Diminishing species of rarely found herbs due to excessive extraction and poaching of wild lives have led to defacing of natural beauty of Johar valley, as well as the entire Himalayan region. As we know Growth of trees and plants are very slow because of severe cold and heavy snow fall in the entire  high Himalayan region, forests had been destroyed to the great extent in these areas just after the china-India border conflict, migration was experienced to the maximum level. In some of the villages, as a result houses were demolished for the purpose of supplying  firewood to the security forces by the local contractors who were responsible to turn some of the villages in to ghost villages. This was clearly tangible during seventy’s when we frequently visited Johar valley, even during that time when most of the houses of other villages in the vicinity got demolished as owner of buildings had shifted to other places for alternate means of livelihood. These ghost villages realized me to understand the contemporary uncertain mindset of traders. Ancestor’s houses in Burfu and a few other villages could not be damaged to the extent, comparatively to other villages in the vicinity. Siguli, bhujan and ragan could be saved. Simultaneously; we could protect rare species of herbs and snow line wild lives from total extinction because of proper watch by the villagers. However, it was not possible in winter when families were shifting to lower areas. Snow line rarely found animals take shelter during winters in the lower line forest, near the villages developed by the respective Village Panchayats, since early times. Credit goes to early settlers and their well thought forest conservation mechanism and process continued by successive generations. As the Trans Himalayan region being a leeward side the growth of flora/trees in this area (low precipitation area) is very slow. We have the example of Singuli, where growths of some of the trees are horizontally parallel to the ground, instead of vertical growth. Hence its horizontal growth becomes like a net and prevents stones and boulders falling down further, thus protecting properties and loss of human lives.

Pic. 3: Flock of sheep moving towards Johar valley bugyal

Erased real pearl of nature! -- I have seen how mercilessly growing trees were fell and cut into pieces, they cannot express the sorrow. In fact, we do not understand expressions. It is true that trees cannot express sorrows like human beings, and these bhozpatra trees (found in high Himalayan ranges, used as paper in early times, mentioned in ancient religious books about its utility besides being habitat of rarely found precious musk deer) tree trunk, in pieces, were being sold to security forces for firewood showing as old and useless trees by contractors conspiring with greedy persons belonging to the same village, I am referring the case of another village where we had gone for knowing about the fate of village after close of Tibet trade. Beautifully wooden carved doors and windows, after buildings were demolished were sold for meager amount.

 These age old and heritage structures shall never be viewed by the descendents. Role of people involved in this nefarious act has created anguish and sorrow on the new generations, those beautiful houses were destroyed and now they can only create anger for the damages for which their ancestors sweated to build amazing buildings in this remote and difficult area, with fine wood and stone carving, notably by contemporary local craftsmen, their desire was to construct beautiful houses for cozy living for families. It is unfortunate that many villages in Johar valley were converted into ghost villages. Burfu and a few other villages could be saved to a great extent due to migration of lesse number of families. Descendents and history will never forgive this generation for negligence and being helpless in protecting art and culture. I surprise there was no sincerity shown by the officers of security forces as well. They should have been border people friendly and cared to protect locked houses of historic importance and nature’s beautiful gifts. It is understood they look after the international border, helping the inhabitants and safeguarding their valuables in border area villages. I am surprised their sincerity deficit in protecting public property in the early years of deployment just after the close of trade due to Indo-China border conflict. Presently ITBP is sincerely involved in making green valley through plantations. Notably ITBP has initiated other programs as well, like medical care to border people, working on many other public benefit schemes in the high Himalayan villages bordering china, helping administration in the event of natural disasters on rescue operations and encouraging youth for adventure sports besides discharging its own pious duty defending the border in a difficult and critical odd situations.   

Pic. 4: Upper Tola village, almost deserted, turned into ghost village

Ancestors connect green earth-- It gives me immense pleasure that our ancestors took pain to conserve forest and expand forest area to protect the village from any eventuality which may endanger the very existence of village. Burfu village is situated in the middle of Johar valley. Here Burfu Gar (river) meets Gori Gar (river). Village is consists of two sub groups, talla burfu belonged to Burfals and Malla burfu settlers are Jangpangi people. Threat perception due to natural calamity was more in malla burfu as it was situated at the root of back ground hills, hence fear of land erosion, frequent falling of boulders created anxiety among the early settlers of malla burfu. In order to protect village from inevitable disasters they decided to conserve the singuli, bhujan and ragan and expanded the size of the green area, for maximizing forest area, plantation had to be done vigorously. They focused on evaluating mechanism to protect our village; at the same time it was felt that forest should be protected from dangerous and notorious elements that are bound to erase nature’s precious treasures. Developing forest, bushes, shrubs and green areas became ultimate goal of early settlers and wished coming generations should definitely make consistent efforts to preserve native species from the danger of extinction. Early village people decided to execute, what was planned and decided by consensus of community elders. Burfu village could only be protected from soil erosion, landslides and floods when village folks work effectively on making green singuli & ragan and enlarge green area awareness program with the support of villagers. Harnessing the expertise of experienced people who had acquired significant knowledge on the basis of their experience, delivered their services to develop and expand green area. Thus, in later years, progress was visible and there was a complete transformation of our forest. The enlarged singuli and ragan with greenery shows if people determine and work accordingly they can achieve anything. Our elders have proved this to happen by their extreme will power. This was why, it was possible to stop cracks on sloppy heights, frequent falling down of boulders and arrested other related hazards. In order to keep beauty of nature and conveying a massage to successive generations, make village green, pollution free environment and ensure secure future and destiny or what we call today “The sustainable development”. Today’s youth of our community need to take the responsibility. Our ancestor’s active participation is commendable in the absence of infrastructure. However, they successfully accomplished difficult task. This was unimaginable! This was admired around the area, inspired by the success of Burfu village, the same program was adopted in surrounding villages as well, and therefore, slogan green and clean village became popular in the Johar valley.

 Green sense—move no.1--Here I wish to mention about one lady climber Ms Bisht from pauri Garhwal who climbed Mount Everest, loved mountaineering, her passion in mountaineering brought her nearer to nature and she became a nature lover. From the core of her heart she was pained to see the disturbances in the high Himalayan ranges and felt the danger of excessive crowd in glacier tracking, mountaineering and other adventure sport activities permitted by government. This caused garbage problems (scattered in the entire), once the virgin area of glaciers and bugyals (grass lands) started turning in to vulnerable area. If crowd goes on increasing forests and other valuable species will be at peril, damages have already been done. She realized the disaster in Himalaya is being invited by human mistakes, which seem to be eminent and inevitable. Imagine the consequences! Being an inhabitant of Uttarakand, what I could understand from the news paper article, she herself started awareness program to limit the events in the Himalayan region. We know global warming due to climate change may affect our glaciers from shrinking faster. Therefore, she with her own efforts set up nursery, growing local plants in her nursery found in high altitude, suited to environment and started distributing among the hill people of these areas to grow. It was a noble effort to inspire others for coming forward in her damage control crusade. Her love for the Himalaya and endeavor to protect it is commendable. Being a woman, her sensibility towards snow line areas fragile biodiversity can be understood by the fact that we cannot stop movement completely for the sake of economic reasons and to carry on such activities which will enhance income of local people. Her exercise, holy in nature and keeping in mind, a safe future of successive generations must be admired and supported.

Pic. 5: Unforgettable grass lands with clouds in Johar valley

Move on. 2--The famous mountaineer and Padma Sri & Arjun awardee late Hukum Singh Pangtey, who climbed almost all top peaks of the world, except Mount Everest (though he successfully led ITBP’s women Everest expedition mission), had always thought of sustainable environment concept. Mr Pangtey led many national & international mountaineering expeditions across the world; while on those expeditions they used to bring back the garbage and waste materials like tin and plastics and used to educate the locals as well as the fellow mountaineers on ill effects of those left over at that high altitude area, which can have very disastrous repercussions on those fragile ecosystems in long run.  His contribution cannot be ignored in the present context when intellectuals, civil societies and environmentalists are expressing deep anxiety and agitating about the human rush in high Himalayan glacier areas in the name of Adventure Tourism. It is also the duty of these so called nature and adventure lovers to conserve the nature for future generation. Each and every act of Human Beings to its Mother Nature will affect the lives of future generation. Late Hukum Singh Ji, belonged to the last village, Milam, in Johar valley of North Eastern part of Uttarakhand state of India (Close to Indo-China border near Teen Dhura Pass). He was not only the jewel of India in mountaineering but also a guide, motivator to young aspirants in mountaineering and a shining star of Johar valley.

Pic 6: Panchachuli Range lovely view from Dandadhar Munsiari, as if it is challenging mountaineers to conquer. Despite many efforts by the different expedition teams it remained a virgin peak until sixties when a team lead by Shri Hukum Singh scaled the submit (as claimed by ITBP)

 Daring move no.3-- I will avoid writing about internationally famed geological explorers as already many articles in detail have been written with significant substance time to time. We have the example of most daring and exemplary effort shown by the group of illiterate women of a village in border district of Chamoli in Uttarakhand state who hugged trunk of the trees and challenged the local contractor to stop indiscriminate cutting of trees in the name of development. They told the contractors to cut them first before cutting the trees. This behavior of local women’s not only shocked the contractors but also the local administration. Soon this moment spread in other parts of the district and caught the attention of media & the government. This unique method adopted by these brave women was given nomenclature Chipko-Andolan. It was an obvious repercussion  as these villagers had taken care to grow these forest like their own children. They obtained worldwide recognition, support and sympathy. The local administration and the Govt. System are also responsible for forcing villagers to move to such an extent. Some of the non-government agencies are also started green movement, I doubt, whether they are performance oriented or not. Their working and output require proper scrutiny.  

 Adventure trade and thrills--when I remember my childhood, hectic life, migration, goat and mule transport system available during those days for migration and Tibet trade, flocks of sheep belonging to traders families, celebration of festivals, national festival 15th August and so on, I feel very nostalgic. Trans Himalayan trade was the main focus of our livelihood as our entire economy was based on Tibet trade. Since Tibet business was very tedious and adventurous job, traders had to be very regular and involve themselves throughout the year. They were the real business travelers. They preferred adventurous job, high Himalayan climate suited them most. Ladies of Johari families needed fine quality wool found in goats and sheep of Tibetan origin. Basically spinning and weaving work was done for the family requirement. Since we were living in high altitude area, traders had to travel through those high altitude passes and climatic conditions. Hence woolen cloths were required. Hence homemade woolen clothes suited them most to save from extreme cold. Besides clothes, nights had to be passed with homemade woolen blankets (Thulma, Pankhi and Pasmina in local parlance) to protect them from freezing wind and climate. Beautiful carpets and komol for women were also made of wool. A few remote villages have still kept this tradition and its use alongside spinning and weaving work. Most of the Johari women have stopped this carpet weaving work and making woolen products even for home use. It is very disappointing and disturbing fact. But we can’t blame our women’s as with time every society changes, education brings new avenues for life. We are recognized on the basis of our language, dress and traditional work. Unfortunately it is diminishing, time does not seems to be far when our Johar Shauka tribe (population wise, a tribe small group within the Bhotia community) will be remembered as a lost tribe if immediate remedial and revival awareness program is not started vigorously by the community itself and if we wish our community to survive, inter group unity, interaction, sharing of thoughts and experiences  within the community is essential, otherwise, we are making difficult to be recognized as a Johar bhotia tribe by way of changed life style,  behavior and lack of affection within the fraternity, which ultimately threaten our coexistence. Our forefathers worked so hard on those inhospitable climatic conditions and still conserved the tradition and values. My request to this generation is to conserve the tradition, language, art and culture of our tribe.  

  Coming back to the trading time our women started producing more products and these items were being sold in the trade melas, for their pocket expenses, by family traders, how busy they were before mela as finished items were to be sent to mela for sale. It was women’s job; there was much competition among the neighborhood families about the quantity and quality of products.  Finished items like carpets, pasminas, pankhis, pattu (tweeds), blankets and thulmas were sold in Jauljibi commercial mela which was organized by Ashkote Rajvar in mid November every year. Besides this other commercial melas like Uttrayani mela Bagser (Bageshwar) in mid January and Thal mela in mid April, were held annually before moving to Munsiari along with family. It was interesting to know how the carpet weaving and the instruments used were, rather than importing from Tibet, modified as per the convenient to our women folk, who were particularly engaged in cottage industry, so that the products manufactured are attractive, durable and as per customers choice. Shauka women were doing this work out of their hobby earlier, since this was popular in trader’s families. In fact later on after the close of Tibet trade this very work happened to a source of income for many needy families.

  Accept change, a natural process--As change is inevitable according to the changing trend around us, those who do not wish for change get lost in the crowd of commoners. Our community has the potential to perceive the circumstances and act accordingly to win over the challenges. Once trade got closed, some of the traders considered they need to shift to other places for livelihood and settle down for betterment of the families in a completely changed scenario. They also desired children shift their choices towards services. It was call of the time too. Thus a few families remained in Munsiari area and out of remaining families, Burfu village and a few other villages like Mapa, Pachhu, Khalyach experienced migration in significant numbers. Post chino-India conflict period, migration is seen in a different context, change in the purpose of migration, families who were migrating to high Himalayan villages anticipated cultivation of buckwheat, potato, dhunwar, and many other types of herbs and plants may be profitable as cash crop. Hence agriculture was considered to be adopted as a profession in a new changed environment, where there seemed to be no future of Tibet trade. During trading time, agriculture was never considered seriously as a good source of income in our village and the valley. Circumstances compelled us to adopt agriculture in a new environment but with a difference i.e. cash oriented crops (cash crops) in rapidly emerging competitive marketing scenario. Their income from cash crops improved considerably. It was also felt there is enormous scope to cultivate costly herbs if the villagers are provided technical knowhow from the government, there was a possibility of huge earning for high altitude farmers. Since extraction is done without proper scientific method, there is no systemic guidance from the government as well, many of the valuable, precious plants and herbs are at the verge of extinction and hundreds of species have already vanished due to negligence and apathy of government and extraction of herbs by unskilled laborers destroying rare species of valuable flora. Complete lack of coordination among the various government agencies caused huge losses in the earning of agriculturists.

   Administration needs to change attitude--Officials are reluctant to visit high Himalayan villages to study ground level realities as a result nature suffers and ultimately the human beings. Poachers, outsiders who inter illegally in these remote prohibited areas are responsible in destroying the habitat of snow line rare animals, such elements involve in illegal, immoral activities when families shift downwards to Munsiari. Even the NGOs took large benefits from the government and agencies but did nothing to educate and train local cultivators in the development of high altitude farming and to increase income of border farmers. Whatever progress the farmers have made is because of their own efforts. We feel government is not serious and sensitive to protect nature’s precious gifts. Now purpose of migration is not the trade as in the past, it is cultivation of cash crops, growing high cost herbs and plants. Descendents of these villages that have settled outside, express deep desire to visit their forefathers’ native places since they possess immense love for ancestor’s native place and other nature lovers, mountaineers, glacier trekkers. When spirited new generation visit they are pained to see some of the villages have turned in to ghost villages. A few families migrate to these villages; however, present generation is focusing on turning these villages across the valley into an environment friendly, wealth generating places. I am using the word wealth creator as traditionally we have been traders. We have been witnessing unusual behavior of the nature. In recent years, more frequently, due to excessive exploitation of natural resources we are witnessing environment crisis and recent natural disasters are just the warning signs. Hence, we need to emphasis on sustainable development-sustainable biodiversity.

   Identity fear pressure. No doubt we have accepted the global village concept meaning we must adopt good things of other communities and nationalities, it is the call of the time but not at the cost of erasing our own identity. We need to acquaint our future generations with truthfulness about our ancestral routes, challenges, contemporary social life, and contribution in social activities, economic conditions, political understanding, culture, values and education. Our ancestors had evolved a system and mechanism and wished, down to generations, efforts should be continued to preserve distinct identity of Johar Bhotia tribe. Now we feel new generation seems to be quick in reacting and want immediate response, wherever they are confused, we need to convince them, they have many questions those answers they want from the society. Hence the role of parents is very crucial; they should start gradually educating about our own identity. I wish to share my own experience that my youngest child, when she was merely a student of 6th standard, started creating a feeling of being different group. When she was growing up, she realized the difference in language she was listening while I was discussing with wife using native language in private discussion at residence. She observed, we are a different ethnic group different from other people. During my posting in hills, she started asking me, papa, what is our identity? Her curiosity was based on queries from her new classmates, since frequent transfers, change of place and admission of children’s in different schools, her curiosity increased. I responded that we are a small bhotia tribe group from Johar valley, Munsiari  of district Pithoragarh,  bordering Tibet now part of china. My sincere wish was to differentiate our tribal group identity with other inhabitants as well as other scheduled tribe groups across the Uttrakhand region declared by the government of India in 1967, when Uttrakhand was under UP state. This information helped her to acknowledge truth about identity and got convinced. She was fine in studies and sports. My children always enjoyed the discussion whenever I used to tell them about our community with transparency, as I was very friendly with my children they joked about our language, dress etc. they laughed, sometimes raised questions, at times disagreed too. Serving in LIC in marketing I had to travel different places with family far from native place. When they grew up they were serious about knowing about native place, ancestors, social values, language, traditional dress, culture and so on. My hobby was to know about the places and people where ever I was posted, besides developing corporation’s business.

Pic 7: Burfu women in Johari Ghogor Komol (Traditional Dress) during Shri Hari pradasani samaroh, malla dumar,Munsiari

   Connect native place, my experience—Situation 1--At Agra my eldest daughter had a sense of Johar tribe language.  I always wished my children should know about parent’s native place, custom and culture, but I never wanted to dictate children rather I wished to create an environment so that they become curious knowing about our community, prefer to connect themselves to native place. I wish to narrate examples how I used skill to create a situation which attracted my children eager to come close to understand our people, culture and values. While taking meal I called wife to provide vegetable (Tupkiya), daughter will come smiling with required item and would tell me, this is your tupki.  When I was getting ready for office, changing cloths, I would intentionally call wife again to bring my shoes (paul) in order to ensure my daughter listens, and understands, what I mean! She comes smiling telling me here is your paul (shoes) papa. I never wished to order, but, created an environment to encourage children to get interested in learning our native language. Thus they were able to know about native people and ethnic culture and language.

Pic 8: Enjoying , greenery and pollution free Munsiari while on summer vacation on mission , look towards native place

 Situation 2-- Here I wish to write about my 2nd daughter who was a bold and hard working girl during her early childhood and was never attracted towards community, as she got her education in girl’s college from the start till completing studies. She had her friends circle from other communities. She started to be close to tribe people, changed her attitude. She started going to Kautics (local melas), saw native women in local dress enjoying folk dance and song. There was a tremendous change in her attitude. She participated in our function at our village Dumar Malla, Shri Hari Pradasani Samaroh organized in the memory of our social activist and fierce freedom fighter. There are numerous other instances where our children were happily excepting to connect themselves to ancestor’s native village and will consider fortunate if they are able to contribute in the welfare and development for the people of village community and valley as a whole. I believe other parents might have applied as well. Childhood experience taught me Johar Bhotia tribe community has never been dependent upon others, rather this community always stood forward to be available for others welfare. We have been basically traders, hence, our tribe group maintained people friendly attitude. 

Pic 9: View of Munsiari bazar

Situation no.3—Even in busy schedule I always preferred morning brisk walking, earlier jogging in the evening playing games; sometimes I took my children with me to the stadium, so that they also develop interest in games and sports. I used to visit frequently high Himalayan villages, bugyals and dare to go on glacier trekking, my son developed hobby for adventure tourism and now it has become his passion to go on long journey to high Himalayan ranges to experience the toughness of nature, to view the superb beauty of nature as well as to win over odd situations. Resultant! He is so found of adventure sports, driving and photography that he is frequently going to glacier trekking, top hills, going on long driving by motor cycle and car. Last year, after marriage he went up to Rohtang Pass with his newlywed wife by car, then in a different direction towards (near to) India-Tibet border. They enjoyed Para gliding together. Besides, these places in Himanchal Pradesh they visited various places of historical, cultural and religious importance in Himanchal. He is an amazing and extreme traveler, found of photography besides being truly dedicated to his profession.

Pic 10 : Admire nature’s softness as well as toughness

Pic 11: Famous bhotia dogs, security guards of shepherds, fearlessly wandering in bugyal

  We need love native place--No doubt, we have a vibrant society, dedicated for the community welfare and development, enthusiastic and dedicated groups of community’s endeavor led to successful seminars organized for development and relief work in terms of monetary help to the families of victims of natural calamities and other social activities. It is really commendable job.  It should also be our sole purpose to avoid creating false image. In the past, Johar youth have launched similar kind of programs in their respective villages. It is essential to know for the youths that they are not the beginners of social welfare schemes and other kinds of activities; however, we appreciate such endeavor by youth for the community’s benefit and generating the feeling of oneness. Definitely it will establish a tradition and pass on down to generations. The current community welfare program should grow with constant, intensity, sincerity, fervor and density of thought. After all we do not want our identity to be lost in the crowd like many other communities who could not survive due to adopting other groups’ culture and values and remained negligent in growing their own culture and values, result disappearance of own identity. We know that present time is the concept of global village, we cannot survive being alone we have to deal with the people of different nationalities across the world  accordingly present generation needs to be well acquainted with various country’s systems and values. But at the same time we need to keep intact our own culture and values. Our identity is our strength; we have the example of Israel a small country in the Middle East surrounded by large hostile Arab countries still standing as a dominant military power with proud, recognized as nation which does not compromise with national integrity and identity. 

   I have seen in our village Burfu, a well organized youth club was already functioning, library was established, in order to deliver service to the community welfare, sport promotion and entertainment. Nevertheless, due to lack of facilities in the early period our children were deprived of encouragement.  But gradually parents and elders of village became aware of strength of imparting good education and sports encouragement; without that children cannot perform with competence in their career. Therefore, their sole focus was on children’s good education and orientation towards sports, both necessary for progressive career.

  Migration (mo-jaan) of burfu-villagers—in the 1st week of october traders used to return from Tibet and as per convenience of families of Jangpangi and Burfal they used to move to downwards towards Munsiari in the 2nd fortnight of October in groups. Similar module in migration was adopted by other communities as well, trade was the 1st job, thereafter, weaving carpets, pasmana, thulma, pankhi etc. this was a household job. Finished items sold at jauljibi commercial mela organized by Askote Rajwar, Bagsar ( Bageshwar ), Uttrayani-Mela, lastly at Thal-Mela just before proceeding to Munsiari along with family. In Munsiari region Jangpangi community expanded in Malla Dumar, Ranthi, Emla and Kanalka villages and Burfal in Darati and Namjala. Here too we had pucca houses build beautifully with fine wood crafting and stone cutting along with sufficient agricultural land, handed over to the families on 50-50 basis (Adhiya, which was prevalent in practice before land reform was exercised in hills) who cultivated agricultural land and took care of houses too. Mostly families again in the month of November use to migrate towards Talla Johar. Here same method was in practice, we owned pucca houses, being looked after by a mitter family who took care of house as well as growing crops in agricultural land owned by maximum families. Their job was to protect interest of mitters (friendship) who trusted them so much. Jangpangi community expanded to Mawani near Chhoribagar Jhalori, Bamori Bhakuna, Tingroli, Saskhet, Patet and Burfals to Kulia and Basora in Talla Johar. Some of the Jangpangi families owned large area of agricultural land like Rai Sahib family of Mawani,  Gopi family of saskhet and Keharu family of Tirgoly. Among other sub castes Milamwals owned huge agriculture land in many villages of Munsiari region and downwards Munsiari region. In the month of April families were starting to return to Munsiari according to trade timing. In the 2nd week of May migration for Burfu used to start, shifting of families matched with trade timing in Tibet and season. Slowly post India-china war era situations changed and people started searching new places like Munsiari, Madkote, Thal, Didihat, Pithoragarh and Almora for their families convenience, business and job opportunities but after the declaration of scheduled tribe in 1967and spread of education young generation availed job opportunities and consequently present generation decided to settle down in Haldani, Dehradun, Lucknow and Delhi, taking in view of better career  prospects for their children in future where availability of all facilities are possible . We are happy that they accepted the change which was a good indication of progressiveness. Similarly other groups, scattered in many villages down to Munsiari, also started regrouping in better places for easy access to modern education, Job and business.

• In the past most of the families had opted for settlement nearer to forest. It was because of easily available grass land for grazing for horses and goats which were main sources of transport during trade period besides in winter season firewood was also easily available in sufficient quantity, therefore, those families who were having larger flocks of animals and easily available firewood preferred to settle nearer to forest. Although managing trade with Tibet and migrating families on regular basis, was a tedious job, however, our elders made this possible by adhering to self discipline and quality of managing obstacles and winning over jointly an example of amazing cooperation within the fraternity since early times. One basic factor for the success of smooth migration of families was respect for the elder’s decisions who laid down rules. It was amazing, shifting of families and doing business in the difficult zone of Tibet (part of china) through rough-tough-dangerous mountainous road conditions in the remotest border area and leading a life like army movement throughout the year with positive attitude. I wish to share my childhood memories little more which may be relevant and interesting for someone.

Pic 12: Our parental house, Nao-Kura at Malla Dumar village, new generation anxious to know about ancestor’s way of life

• I was hardly 5/6 years old; in 1953 I could just understand what others are talking about. While moving from one camp to the next camp, small children used to accompany females since they were the last group reaching camp. 1st camp was Lilam. I was with my mother’s group. Ladies were taking rest on the roadside almost near Lilam camp (Thaor), facing village Pato. One old lady about 70years old, broke the silence and started telling what she heard during her childhood from old ladies that one night villagers, on a special occasion were in a festive mood singing, dancing and suddenly Gorkha fauj (army) attacked. The village is situated in such a terrain that you cannot see and hear from the distance unless reach there. Hurriedly villagers fled towards the jungles, so that they could save their lives and valuables. According to her, these types of attacks were frequent during those days. Successive generations knew. It is well understood that she was telling about 17th Gorkha attacks. I am amazed that Gorkhas were courageous and proactive in advance movement with huge attacking power. It was a dominant military power those days. Despite the worst road conditions, Nepal Army moving on foot and winning large areas up to Sirmaur district in Himalchal Pradesh travelling long distances was not an easy task, they attacked frequently, history itself speaks about their war strategy. 
• Stories were common in Burfu and surrounding villages that people had erected two-three feet high stone structure (Panpati in local dialect) towards hill tops at certain distances to mislead Nepali soldiers as if villagers are fleeing in that direction since from a distance these structures looked like human beings, their creative idea rescued people from possible physical torture and massacre. In the entire Johar valley villages Nepali soldiers sudden attacks and their terror stories frightened people. Subsequently this threat perception compelled construction of Milam war house by people of Milam village, even, villagers outside Milam also contributed, in order to prevent the attackers ( they used to take shelter at the time of attack and through holes they fired at the enemies ), thus saved valley from human loss.  It came to my knowledge in our village Burfu, the top of the Bhadeli Gwar (bugyal ) at the height of approximately 15000ft height there is an old temple of Maan Devata, it is a small stone structure temple even today. In the temple Nepali soldiers used to offer coins and flowers during their movement. Raghunath temple was situated on the opposite side of Burfugarh. Puja was performed by the villagers every year, but it was conducted on different dates according to convenience of Jangpangi and burfal communities at the same place. Since due to heavy rains there was a flood and Raghnath temple was washed away in recent years, it is a clear indication of climate change and global warming resulting to colossal loss to sustainability of natural beauty. Now we have separate temples reconstructed by Jangpangis and burfals. our youth group and women organization of village contributed tremendously as well as jangpangi people working and living outside financially helped according to their capacity for the construction of temple. They plan to associate mandir committee with clean environment- green village motto, with the help of NGOs, emphasizing on massive plantation using local plants within the temple area and village panchayat area changing the attitude of villagers and make them environment friendly. Idea is to spread the massage, plant trees –save beautiful earth, don’t spoil environment, and avoid natural calamities.  Burfal brothers also constructed separate Raghunath mandir with the financial help from NGO and individual contributions. 
• I wish to mention about a person late Dhan Ram (dhunnu-bhedi, his nick name) who was not so popular at that time for his hidden talent. Having natural talent, as a story narrator. Simply as a narrator and an entertainer he used to give performance in a small group. He only used to entertain his colleagues during migration from Dumar to Jhalori and Bamori His brain was a store house of such stories. Since it was my early childhood, I could hardly understand style of his ability of story-telling in the form of local song like Tejan Bai is an extraordinary task, today I understand Dhanu Ram should have been given due respect and recognition for his unbelievable talent. Villagers could not harness poor man’s excellent talent in mythological stories by heart which contained tragedy, joy, rivalry, victory and defeat accordingly while performing changing pitch of his voice, and this was the beauty of his narration in the form of song. An outstanding mythological story teller who being illiterate could sing and narrate the stories fluently in local dialect. 
• During my early childhood I found there was a tradition of nick name according to the behavior of the individual in my village. Adjective is always added after the name of the individual like Bisunu Chlbaj (clever), Bisunu Lato (simple and honest, s is pronounced as h), Mani Kaptan (living luxury lifestyle), Dhunnu Bhedi (looking simple but very shrewd). This was also popular in other villages of Johar valley. Nick name was also used for the individual groups in the valley according to the common nature of groups. For example Zamkai (Jangpangi tribe group) is popularly nicknamed zamkai kow (crow), crow is considered as the most intelligent among all birds. Totia tribe group of Johar tribe community was given the nomenclature Tullee bhalu (bear)   supposed to be rough and tough, by heart they are decent people. Dhamsaktu group is nicknamed as Dhamot Dupkoo (creating anger, being hyper) likewise other tribe groups were also called by nicknames.

Pic 13: Distinct view of Singuli, way to Bhadeli gwar, clouds covering the fearsome mountains and beautiful old primary school

A social reformer and a man of discipline--Late kishan Singh Jangpangi s/o late Gopi, descendent of Debu, an effective social reformer and district board member belonging to burfu was the most respected person in the entire Johar munsiari area. Whenever people talk about Burfu he will always be remembered for beauty and quality of the primary school building. Although more than six decades have passed, I saw the building still intact.

As change is the natural process.  Some customs which prevailed in the society, he urged villagers to give up, like use of daru (alcohol) during festivals and marriages, eliminating discrimination against harijans and empowerment to women and erasing other social evils.  It is said freedom fighter late Hari singh Jangpangi was a great admirer and dedicated disciple of late Kishan Singh. Rather, he was undergoing social service training under him. Under his guidance he learnt a lot about social disparities needed to be eliminated so that community gets rid of all kind of evils that prevailed in the society those days. Practically he was approaching people to create awareness about evils existing in the society and educating them to erase at any cost. Since freedom movement had not gained momentum in the remote areas, therefore, Kishan Singh could not involved himself so seriously, no doubt, sentiments were developing, emotions were generating, people whispering for the outburst of movement at any moment in the area, but out of total awareness deficit in the area and involvement in Tibet trade, it was not possible to accelerate people to participate in the freedom struggle which on later stage Hari Singh Ji and other freedom fighters combined effort carried on the crusade. Fortunately now freedom movement had spread and sentiments had gained momentum throughout India, including our valley.

A social activist and a fierce freedom fighter--When Hari Singh was actively evolved in freedom movement, my effort is to bring in writing about him, so that his noble work can be passed on down to generations. How an ordinary looking man could do extraordinary work and could establish himself as a person of his nature a forceful, fearless, formidable freedom fighter. Because of working experience under the able guidance of Kishan Singh, a social reformer and an elected public representative, Hari Singh developed the interest of social service and sincere orientation towards freedom movement; at the same time he decided to lead movement for social equality, erasing poverty, eliminating illiteracy and empowering women. Late Kishanji was a tall figure in social acceptability. From high Himalayan village Burfu we were migrating down to Munsiari village Malla Dumar, later on some families settled permanently in Munsiari. As villages of Munsiari were not connected with motor roads we used to travel to Munsiari from our villages on foot. About four five ego ,when I met Trilok Singh Brijwal, himself a freedom fighter and found him a true admirer of Hari Singh, he was so excited and thrilled telling that Hari Da was a fearless man, many times he objected against the ill treatment, torture and bad quality food being served to political  prisoners and refused to eat along with other jailed freedom fighters, he raised slogans bharat mata ki jai, inklab zindabad and suffered physical torture for raising issues inside jails, being a true patriot he tolerated all kinds of tortures. We salute him. Though he was small in physical structure but remained always tall in spirit, moral values, enthusiasm and sacrifice. Late Madho Singh jangpangi and late Nari Ram also belonged to this village. Both of them did not care about their families and jumped in the freedom movement. We salute them too, on their contribution for the independence of motherland. Late Hari Singh had a financial backing of his younger brother late Prem Singh. Other two dedicated freedom fighters volunteered to participate without taking care of their family conditions. Families who were close to these people took care of their families.

Pic 14: One group of Women in traditional dress participating in folk song and folk dance competition during Hari Pradasani

Second phase struggle (movement ) of Hari Singh—After independence Hari singh decided to start movement against inequality, untouchability, poverty, non availability of health care, illiteracy and women’s pitiable condition. It is a well-known fact that most of the freedom fighters returned back to their original work after India gained independence. Because they had joined freedom movement to see nation free from foreign rule, hence it was natural for them to join original occupation. Our freedom fighters had joined freedom movement on their own will at the call of national leaders. They were not greedy people like today’s Uttarakhand separate state movement people; this is why they are demanding all kinds of benefits from the government for the contribution these people have made in creation of separate state. A man of determination, having tremendous courage Late Hari Singh of Burfu village was a leader who could make a difference and brought many social reforms with active cooperation of village elders for under privileged segment of society. Burfu village was regarded as a model village in social reforms this was admitted by Johar tribe community and well wishers of johar valley. Credit goes to our elders who anticipated and sensed the future scenario in depth, that classless society will emerge one day definitely. Hari Singh was a fearless and fine orator. His confidence level was very high. Fighting against the injustice was his priority; therefore he always enjoyed fighting against the powerful and strong reverse waves. With his active and effective persuasion along with village elders, it was possible that Malla Burfu harijan families were provided free land by the government for self reliance near Josha village in Madkote area.

Pic 15: My wife (Mrs. Pratima) with a little girl who is in local dress while looking towards the stage

Malla burfu kachhari (community house)—In Burfu, after migration was over, traders, before heading for Tibet for business, used to relax and gather in the kachhari (common house) for gossip and sometimes for serious talks. It was also repeated the same way when they were returning from successful business tour of Tibet. I remember as a little child how parents were coming and joining gossips with little children tied with pankhi (woolen shawl to avoid cold on their back) and spinning wool by both hands. Primary teacher and village purohit (priest) were given for stay in the community house along with free milk and ration (baiger in local language) one by one by trader’s family. Traditionally teacher and priest were accorded respect by all irrespective of age.

Private kachhari  at Malla Burfu (high altitude border village), Malla Dumar (low Himalayan village) and Saskhet (Talla Johar) of Late Nar sing (descendent of Narsinga and s/o Debu)—the most respected person of his time Nar Singh ji family had constructed kachhari for the convenience of people who were coming to solve their disputes in order to avoid long legal process. Although there was no government recognition, however, people preferred to take shelter in Nar Singh bubu’s kachhari, it was understood decision will be binding on both sides and will be respected by both the parties, decision was always given in favor of sufferer or victim without prejudice.  Our family was a leading business family. Those days mules, being the only means of transport and riding. In one incident a horse of late Kundan Singh Brijwal (he was deaf) was coming from opposite side on way to Johar from Munsiari (this horse was used for riding and race). On the way the horse panicked and dashed and fell on the river  (gorigarh). There was no trace of horse. The owner put blame on other co traveler on that route of causing this incident as the horse got panicked while being honked by other people. This case happened to be decided by Narsingh bubu, he listened and gave his verdict, replacement of horse and both the parties agreed. This was an impartial decision.

Pic 16: Late Nar Singh Bubu’s age old famous Kachhari building, now in a bad condition

 In order to educate about early settlers of Johar valley villages, social life of our ancestors, it is essential to go thoroughly right from ancient period up to pre India-china war of 1962 era and thereafter. There is a positive sign that we find in younger generation who are leading new life styles are earnestly willing to know about their ancestors, they visit their villages and express deep concern and communicate with friends through face book, twitter  about  almost vacant villages, broken houses, excessive extraction of costly herbs and plants. There are no proper norms being applied by responsible government agencies. Hence most of the herbs and plants are at the verge of extinction, it seems outsiders are spoiling natural habitat of snow line animals and turning beautiful grass lands (bugyals) into unrepairable condition and damaging environment. It is true, those families which are still migrating to High Himalayan region in Johar valley need encouragement, motivation in terms of monitory help (incentive), special subsidy in essential commodities and road connectivity-telephone connectivity from the state and central government. Although in Burfu village number of migrating families are considerably much more than rest of the villages in Johar valley. Their confidence level is high, but, their main complaint is government is not sensitive about their genuine problems and indifferent attitude of the authorities towards border villages where they act as unpaid guards standing firmly on the border lines defending country from unpredictable China. Since we have witnessed back stabbing in border conflict of 1962, hence china cannot be trusted.

Burfu youth club— Is the present generation fully aware of our community? In the past each village had their organizations of various kinds for the unity, cooperation and strength of village. As far as our Burfu village is concerned I remember in the middle of village, there was a youth club house bifurcating Malla and Talla Burfu. It is said Burfals settlted earlier and Jangpangi people stepped in later on. Every evening volley ball game was played in front of club house. Football ground was near Kali mandir towards way to Milam. In my ears still echo playful activities counting sounds, 1-2, service change, of Lachhaman Padhaan, a jolly person who used to act as referee, sometimes playing as well; there used to be big rush inside the club and outside. Matches were organized. Teams from nearby villages occasionally participated in friendly matches. Contemporary youths like Rajendra Singh, Munna Singh, Manohar Singh (mani), Manohar Singh, Laxman Singh, Bhawan Singh, Shankar Singh, Gobardhan Singh Burfal, Durga Singh Burfal, Dham Singh, Shyam Singh Burfal etc. Among these some were traders who had move earlier to Tibet for business. The impact of sports activities was that sports became very popular among youth down to generations.

Previous generations were also participating in games in Tibet (Gyanima Mandi) with other village teams of Johar valley, who were there for trade. It was a means of maintaining unity in the subgroup within the Johar tribal community, no matter, wherever they are. Those elders have contributed tremendously in promoting sports and games in the remotest border area, anticipating the future generation’s career in sports and games. They were natural role models for new generations. The enthusiasm among the youth as mentioned above was tremendous. While in Almora, I met an old man who was a soccer player. He was friend of my eldest brother late Manohar Singh Jangpangi (mani da). Both were team mate of Ramjay School (Almora) football team. They together participated in many football matches outside Almora and won matches. Pressure from home to join family trade forced our elder brother (mani dada) to discontinue his study and join family. Though, initially he was reluctant to join the business. In order to expand business our family firm M/s Nain Singh Soban Singh, our family needed a young, talented family person to take over the charge of business, as it was not possible for uncle late Kundan Singh to conduct the day today affairs of the business due to his deteriorating health and he was already looking after Thal Valley business. Later my Uncle expired. Hence a lot of negativity & rumor surrounded the business. Mani dada was the only choice for the elders, but it was a blunder for him to leave Almora, a painful decision, which completely changed his destiny to a disastrous end. Although after joining family trade, he was doing fine even uncertainty prevailed in business environment in Johar Valley. Elders hoped business will continue, as most of the affluent traders of johar valley expected, but, it was not true. Brother too wished to complete studies and seek suitable service so that he could harness talent and creativity in order to give good results in the space of his choice. 

  Shri Rajendra Singh Jangpangi, S/o late Kishan Singh Jangpangi (a social reformist and member of district board Almora) who retired as honorary captain from 3rd Kumaon, used to teach us English and encouraged for games. He was very active in social activities whenever he used to come on annual leave in Burfu village. I did not know much about him since migration had stopped and his family preferred to settle in Saskhet down to Munsiari near Thal (Didihat), as they owned large agricultural land in many villages. I wish to mention about my meeting (I was senior branch manager in Almora) with Naib Subedar Bhakuni, father of LIC agent B.S.Bhakuni. Incidentally he also belonged to 3rd kumaon, he narrated about Raja kaka and appreciated his work as JCO and retired as honorary Capt. Because of his knowledge power he was popular figure in the battalion, respected and loved by jawans. According to him, he always assisted lower ranks whenever they needed help, officers also considered him as an asset to the regiment. Affection, admiration and reputation that he earned in his work place gave me a feeling of pride because he belonged to our community. Tremendous popularity that he gained touched me emotionally, and understood that he is man of positive approach and a man of dedication having immense zeal and motivating power.

  I wish to mention name of late Manohar Singh Jangpangi (mani kaka) s/o late Prem Singh Jangpangi, he also joined Army. He was a strong defender (football) and represented Delhi cant in many major tournaments. Within the army he was a recognized soccer player. Group photos displayed in his parental house in Dumar village (Munsiari) shows the stature of player. In the army he got an opportunity to excel in football. After retirement Mani kaka could not contribute in promoting soccer since he shifted his family to Nolara village near Thal. His family also owned lands around village Nolara. Here I want to clear that families, belonging to Saskhet village (near Thal), Tirngoli (near Thal) and Bamori village (inside Nachani about two kilometers along Bhujgarh (River)) have got the same ancestral root. Originally combined family had dwelling at Patet (Thal) with large agricultural lands, which were given to cultivators for harvest, as migration was frequent due to India Tibet trade. During that time there were no proper facilities available, however, on their own efforts they arranged play ground and motivated juniors of village to play games and excel in games of their choice. That is why village produced many notable players who represented their schools, colleges and departments. In the similar fashion then youth of other Johar villages had their own clubs and were organizing games, cultural activities.

 Burfu-library—It is unbelievable such an old library was maintained by then young members of club in Burfu village, when there was no such environment of visiting library and availability of huge reading materials that I saw in the library more than six decades ago. Yes, it was made possible due to ceaseless efforts of young dedicated members in spite of busy business schedule throughout the year. Collection of standard books reveals about their thoughts and willingness that future generation should grow intellectually. Their vision was a healthy mind in a healthy body. I have gone through English version of kumaon history and numerous other valuable books, since, after the close of India-china trade, some persons unknowingly destroyed materials of historical importance including buildings (having amazing stone and wood carving by the local craftsmen). I particularly request to all, belonging to Burfu village and those who have shifted elsewhere for livelihood, if they have any knowledge of books pertaining to library at Burfu with library stamp or other valuable documents related to library set-up, please do favor by informing us with full details or return to Shri Gokarn Singh Janngpani, retiree from army, or to any youth worker who is migrating still to Burfu, under intimation to us so that we may find out about the history of Burfu library. We wish to collect relevant information related to Burfu library so that supportive evidences may lead us to know about motive of library opening, persons instrumental, initiators, stimulant elements and collection of books. We wish to recognize those people who actualized the dream.

   Entertainment- Inside the library building a space, verandah was made available for music lovers. When I was a small child, two names come to my mind both were handicapped having one arm very weak and another one hand cut from wrist, they were good singers too. Late Vinod Singh Jangpangi had one arm very weak, but, he was an excellent harmonium player and very melodious singer. He belonged to reputed Rai Sahib Family owning huge agricultural land in different villages and famous business family of burfu village. Padma Sri late Laxman Singh Jangpangi belonged to this family. Late Vinod Singh was free from family a responsibility, that’s why, he diverted himself towards music and cultural activities. Another person late Harmal Singh Burfal, a handicapped, was expert in Dholak. They had not taken formal training in musical instruments and singing but they were god gifted musical instrument players and singers. Listeners enjoyed music for considerable time in spite of cold. On the field volleyball game was played, in the verandah music lovers were enjoying songs and inside room reading by those who liked reading books for enhancing knowledge. A lovely combination! Happiness, positive environment and positive vibration flowing. However, there was zeal and sense of spirit to deliver to the society with smile.

 Education-spread — Our society always gave importance to education since they considered education as an asset for progress. Late Kishan Singh Jangpangi, member district Board, was instrumental in the construction of primary school in Burfu village. School building divides the village Malla Burfu and Talla Burfu. School building is still intact and never required repairs. It is a large building still intact and probably the oldest school building during forty’s of 20th century.  According to season and convenient of families school was also migrating to Munsiari and then to Talla Johar. Elders had arranged a girl’s school at Burfu. It was to promote education among the girls, since; they knew empowering female first means impart education. As there was no provision for further education, therefore those who could afford expenditure they started sending their children to Almora or elsewhere. This was possible because of some families’ futuristic approach.                        

Pic 17: Old days girl’s primary school in Burfu village

Friendly relationship (Mitteram) Matters—During my Childhood, mid 1950s and earlier, our family’s Tibetan mitter (business friends ) used to come to Burfu with goat flocks, as soon as we received information about their arrival, we were rushing to receive them on the way. On metting we were shaking hands greeting with Tibetan word Kham-Zang (hello) thereafter, we used to accompany them to reach to the place where their stay was arranged. Trader class of Johar Valley had adopted skillful methods in order to carry on their business activities successfully and smoothly in dacoit prone Tibet region. Therefore, traders community within the Bhotia tribe of Johar valley developed friendly relationship (mitteram ) with the individual families, according to size of their business so as to make movements in these areas easy to penetrate even in deep hostile and dangerous region in Tibet. They were considerably trustworthy similarly; they used to come to Indian side with flocks of goats loaded with wool and other items. Business was done on exchange of goods rates decided by empowered team of Tibet and Johar valley nominated traders and trade was declared open at Milam after the agreement. I really appreciate brain application of our earlier traders for converting difficult business zone in to business friendly comfort zone. Nevertheless, the fear of dacoits could not be eliminated; time and again such incidents of robberies did happen, however, confidence level of traders always remained high. This was why business could be continued till china-India conflict. Trader’s class of Johar valley enjoyed the life and profession. Undoubtedly, elders skillful thought process brought into action made trade comfortable and convenient to a great extent and became a deciding factor helping business to grow effectively down to generations which changed the destiny of traders, till China India conflict. Our elder traders understood developing relationships matters!

   As I have already mentioned in my earlier writings that selected families in each village of Johar valley were engaged in trade with Tibet in a systematic manner, even, some small villages which were not dealing in business with Tibet, however, their participation was in other forms. All though trade with Tibet was not a task of bed of roses, it was full of risks. Crossing eighteen thousand high mountains along with horses and goats the main means of transport, loaded with valuable items for sale in Tibet was tiresome, difficult and unbelievable business journey. I remember, during childhood, various stories about barbarous acts of notorious, cruel and inhuman robberies in Tibet were narrated to us, when I look back to childhood memories, my father used to tell me that, we had a permanent shop in Tibet at Rudok in Tibet, our employee was looking after business. M/S Nain Singh Soban Singh, Burfu, our business firm suffered a huge financial loss and had been a victim of robberies twice. Dacoits in groups looting from southern eastern Tibet sweeping and moving towards western Tibet and returning back whoever met on the way looting them, if resisted were massacred and their valuables looted.

 Capt (Dr.) Darwan Singh Jangpangi was son of Jawahar Singh, first cousin of father, had joined Royal Indian Army, who participated in 2^nd world war in the western sector. Their division had moved Middle Eastern up to Italian fronts, Durga Das then war correspondent has mentioned in his book that he has seen the famous 10^th Indian Division in action. Mussolini the dictator and an ally of German dictator Hitler had to surrender to allied forces, being from medical profession uncle was deputed for the Prisoners of War (PoW) camp in Italy. Whenever there was discussion on 2^nd World War, Uncle always regretted that he could not move further, he missed the chance. After retirement doctor sahib settled at Almora, his father wanted uncle to come home and serve the poor people who really needed medical help and care, for family reasons it could not be possible. On this indifferent decision his father was very disappointed.

  It is a fact doctor sahib was a man of discipline; he helped those students from the family who followed his instructions. After all it was in the interest of family students. I wish to mention a few names like Sri Pushkar Singh Jangpangi, Inder Singh, Kharak Singh and others all made significant progress in their professional career, who got education under his guidance and supervision. He also wished to establish educational foundation in his name for the poor students of Jangpangi fraternity just before his death, as we heard. This scheme could not be materialized due to his death. It is said, he had arranged initial amount too. 

 Dolma Dolkar writes-- Traders were never afraid of dangers in business, rather, they accepted as a challenge which created vibrations of optimistic views in their thrilling job. The law and order situation in Tibet in the early times was indeed the worst; this fact is justified by Dolma Dolkar, the first Tibetan lady, who went out of Tibet to study in Darjeeling and got exposer of outside world. In her book, a Daughter of Tibet, she wrote with the help of two European writers, she clearly admits about the administrative mess in Tibet. Areas were sold to the highest bidder and were given free hand to run their areas; no systematic administrative set-up was visible anywhere in Tibet. People’s welfare programs completely neglected, therefore, development planning and proper execution was not visible and noticeable. Religious head as well as the king was concerned about revenue and bidders were concerned only about their profit. However, besides all odd situations risk of live, fear of robbery, difficult terrain, health hazard and unpredictable weather condition, our young traders enjoyed the life they were leading and enjoyed the profession. They preferred adventure, Trans Himalayan trade itself was full of adventure, and therefore, they accepted challenges of trade. While enjoying life and enjoying profession, traders focus always remained on creating wealth while excelling on trade patterns bringing changes according to time to make business more profitable.

  I belong to Burfu village of Johar valley of Uttrakhand, a beautiful village among thirteen villages of our valley. We used to have (historical) trade with Tibet through high Himalayan Pass Teen Dhura (Three Pass: Utta Dhura, Jayanti Dhura and Kingri-Bingari Dhura ) the most difficult pass yet very busy trade line and Kailash-Mansarobar yatra route. Gyanima Mandi in Tibet was first trade centre, few traders had another trade centre Gartok. Ours route is the most difficult pass to cross over to another country for business, however , trade continued for many decades till china’s occupation of Tibet and thereafter china-India border clash. In my childhood I have seen during Tibet business our family had a good presence and was visible in the entire valley.

  Environment connection-- I appreciate understanding of early settlers (tribe groups) in Johar valley who sensed the dangers of environmental pollution due to excessive exploitation of natural resources and global warming, which may cause to natural calamities, accordingly, they initiated immediate  steps like conservation (Singuli, Bhujan and Ragan, habitat of wild high altitude animals) of forest which they had developed earlier , extensive plantation spreading the green area beneficial to villagers  as well as to rare high altitude animals to counter possible damages like soil erosion, floods, shrinking of glacier. Significantly, every village developed Singuli, Bhojpatra forest (ancient tree mentioned in religious books found in high Himalayan ranges), Ragan (raga forest found particularly in Tola and Burfu). Since I belong to Burfu village and have seen and observed  the immediate effective measures taken by our ancient tribe groups to save village from well anticipated hazards despite the fact they were not educated  but having huge experience of life, certain guide lines were made necessary to abide to protect their developed plants and old trees may be used for firewood. The same thought process continued down to generations till cessation of Trans Himalayan trade turned in to deserted and ghost villages; accept a few families migrating to these villages. They endeavored to make their dream in to reality. it was possible since our people always respected their elders in the past and their vision, conserve the forest, spread the forest area by maximum plantation, save the precious plants from extinction and save snow line rarely found animal’s habitat and make Johar valley green. Trading families remained assessing the situation. As our family had significant business interest in Tibet part of china, therefore, I can understand the feelings of traders during that period.  

 Taking the advantage of uncertain situation, some greedy persons in every village took advantage of vacant villages and became self claimed village representatives, engaged in destroying age old forest and selling off to security forces for firewood. I along with friends had been to burfu village for Raga Pussai. From there we planned to visit  Milam glacier, while coming back after visiting Milam glacier downwards Milam, we saw mules loaded with pieces of grown up Bhojpatra trees being transported for security forces based at Milam. I was shocked and felt these green trees have been cut by greedy people with silent approval from security force. And asked persons why they are carrying young tree pieces, they explained us, that supplier of firewood is a so called prominent figure of village. These forces are no doubt, responsible to safeguard our borders, at the same time they need to be sensible enough to protect environment by persuading others not to become part of merciless felling of trees in high Himalayan ranges where it takes many decades to grow as a tree from plant. If we cannot participate in conservation of forest, we should not become destroyers. Furthermore, during acute winter season high altitude wild lives take shelter in the forests developed by our ancestors. These Singulis, Bhujan and Ragan are habitat of these rare & endangered wild animals. Like human beings we cannot guess their pain, therefore, it becomes our responsibility to have human touch towards animals and trees.

  It was imperative to educate the villagers about natural treasure found in these areas so that, families who are migrating to high Himalayan ranges get basic knowledge about hazards due to environmental pollution, global warming and excessive exploitation of nature. Medical care is essential in this remote border region, basically it is the duty of centre and state governments to provide such facilities and better infrastructure so that migrating families do not face inconvenient situations. Development work should be initiated on priority basis So that more families are attracted and motivated to migrate to these areas as empty villages provide discouragement to the migrating people and these deserted villages are easy access to the enemies of nature’s precious gifts.  

   Visualize the difference --Now it is open secret that on the other side of border which is considered not India friendly there is a network of mettle roads and strong communication system deployed for rapid deployment of security forces. There is a trust deficit; hence, border people should also be aware of activities on the other side. No doubt, our people living in these areas are highly spirited and motivated. These are inherent qualities in our border people, they can generate confidence in security forces, and courageously they shall forward to fight with enemies along with forces. Even community people who are living in other places will rush to join the fight against the enemy. Our valley people have always been in the forefront in the event of border turmoil to show solidarity with the nation, our village Burfu also has a privilege producing dedicated freedom fighters along with others giving strength to freedom movement even from the extreme remote border of Johar valley. The same spirit still exists.   

   Agriculture connect and extraction of herbs—Trading families had nothing to do with cultivation. Since we had pucca houses in Burfu, Dumar (Munsiari) and Talla Johar and some in the vicinity along with agricultural lands but farming was not in a priority list. Trade was main occupation. When trade stopped then only cash crop was seriously considered and later on migrating families emphasized on cash crop and cultivating herbs and plants which could fetch good returns. Ultimately it paid and turned in to main profession for migrating families. This is why we have experienced a good number of families in Burfu have been motivated to migrate in spite of the fact; they have to get over through numerous difficulties.

 Nomati (morning-alarm)—In village Malla Burf, our ancestors had formulated a mechanism in the name of code of conduct so that there is no interruption in day to day work  and no complain of discipline-deficit to occur. In the village activities started from 4PM. There was no provision of alarm system, hence, traditionally who were already doing on other occasions were assigned to pray the almighty and asking for good day in the form of drum beating at the same time calling families to get up and start the day. It was a unique style. I do not know no whether this method was being followed by other villages or not, but, it was a routine system in Malla Burfu village. For this job the labor cost was fixed by the elders was timely paid. I remember, how, families were alert for Nomati Alarm.

Language of Johari people—Since population of Johar bhotia tribe is small and language spoken in entire Johar valley is almost the same. It is true that hundreds of languages are vanishing every year and many languages are at the verse of erasing. Reason is obvious, because of changing values, culture and urbanization. People have shifted from their native place and settled elsewhere for better business opportunities and jobs. This effect is found throughout the world today. I have read about Iran northern nomads, many of the families have left their traditional work and settled in towns to impart better education to their children so that they can seek other jobs rather than pursuing nomadic life. Their elders too wish, their children to get rid of miserable zone and lead convenient, comfortable modern lifestyle. Those who are continuing nomadic life they are facing inconvenient situations on their journey, since, locals have started cultivating harvest where they used to camp for night stay, somewhere either roads have been diverted or covered and ask shepherd families not to use  traditional roads who used to migrate along with mules and flocks of sheep for decades towards northern side of Iran where large grazing grounds and cold weather are available .They say up to their life they want to carry their traditional job but their children will not continue. In this process as I mentioned earlier most of these families have gone to towns and cities, there they have mingled with the local community people who are in majority. This will definitely create identity crisis for these people in the future.

This reminds me the same situation we were also facing while migrated to different places in search of job, this problem was created in many such conditions, where such migrations occurred. In Johar valley, Munsiari, Medium of education is either Hindi or English, children naturally came in contact of others and speak the same language. Children and adults have forgotten our own language. Therefore it is the duty of parents to give them advise to get acquainted with our language, culture, values and tradition so that their affection towards birth place is developed and activated effectively and ancestors tolerating hardships so that their descendents may lead prosperous and convenient lifestyle, may encourage them to make tremendous efforts collectively for making glorious future and become role model for generations to come. I wish to again mention the example of Israel, a small country surrounded by Arab countries, this community has suffered a lot, but their affection for Israel remained immense no matter where they are, that was why they could save their language, tradition and culture. Israelis had started migrating to Europe and other countries well before the birth of Jesus Christ. Where ever they went for better opportunities, they contributed in the economic development of those countries as well as they flourished on account of their affirmative attitude and hard work to accomplish task for own economic progress. Many times they were victimized because of their hard work, the affluence Jews had achieved, their neighborhood got jealous. Resultant world witnessed mass killings, their businesses destroyed by the locals, but every time they stood up with same level of confidence and zeal. Again they rose to affluence with same spirit. We have the example of the tragic mass killings by Nazi army of Hitler the most cruel dictator who eliminated millions of Jews in gas chambers during 2^nd world war, However ,this courageous race could not be erased by Hitler, instead he himself disappeared from the world scene, because of winning attitude to live life with collective thought process of Jews. They never forgot to teach their future generations to preserve language, culture, tradition and values of their race intact down to generations and unite them across the world, more importantly as a group they have become more proactive, aggressive, and progressive and performers where ever they are settled. They were too much attached to their language, culture and values where ever they may be. Their language i.e, Hebrew once in the verge of extinction has again revived. Thanks to their collective efforts and sense of togetherness.  

 When I look about my community, Johar Munsiari Bhotia tribe, the language we had been speaking for last six decades, now hardly 30% of language (sauka boly) is in use. Earlier, hundred years ago our language should have been much harder. It pains me most, frequently used words and sentences have already vanished from our language and new words have taken place. I have observed that till 1975 the percentage use of our language by our tribe was 70%. 1975 Onwards till date the percentage use of our language has come down sharply. Reasons are obvious; mostly teenagers do not use Shauka language. Service class/ retired personnel and families settled outside their communication line is Hindi or English according to status. Only old people and people living in remote areas speak shauka boly. The day is not far when shauka language will be considered under the category of disappeared language. I understand our language cannot be the medium of education but this combines us because within the community it works as a means of communication. On my own observation, I wish to explain about our language and words which were/are commonly and frequently being used, gradually new words from Hindi have taken place due to change of place and coming in contact of other communities. Further, I noticed there is no masculine and feminine gender like in Bengali. We also observe there is mixed words of Nepali language, like Drink water is spoken as pani khanyo. We speak as pani khashya. The most difficult part of our language is in many words s is pronounced as h. For example –trouser-shutun (here s is pronounced as h). Similarly we frequently use chh in the last as it is spoken in Gujarat. I have illustrated a few words as below. We can understand many words have already disappeared from use and replaced by Hindi words.

English	Hindi	Johar Boli	English	Hindi	Johar Boli	English	Hindi	JoharBoli
Rice	चावल	भात	Vegetable	सब्जी	तुप्की	Mutton	मीट	मासो
Bread/Chapati	रोटी	रव्वाट	Fried rice	जीरा चावल	भुमला	Noodle	नूडल	कुक्ला
Guest	मेहमान	पौन	Goodman	अच्छा आदमी	भल मैस	Badman	बुरा आदमी	गोट मैस
Grassland	चारागाह	ग्वार	Shepherd	गडरिया	अन्वाल	Mule driver	घोड़ा चालक	ड्याब
Stone	पत्थर	ढ्हुंग	Soil	मिट्टी	माटी	Flood	बाढ	ध्वाल्क्का
Mud	किचढ	क्च्यार	Rains	बरसात	झड	River	नदी	गार
House	मकान	कुरा	Road	रास्ता	बाटो	Bridge	पुल	होङ्ग
Old couple	बुजुर्ग जोड़ा	ढ्हेरी ढ्ह्यरा	Children	बच्चे	नान्तिना	Farm land	खेत	गार
Father	पिता	बबा	Mother	माँ	अमा	Uncle	चाचा	कका
Aunt	चाची	काकी	Bbrother	भैया	दादा	Sister	बहिन	अता
Boy	लड़का	छोयरा	Girl	लड़की	छयोरी	Son	बेटा	च्योल
Daughter	बेटी	चेली	Big	बड़ा	ठुल
Tomarrow	आने वाला कल	भॊल	Yesterday	बीता हुआ कल	बैली	Day by	परसों	पौरु
Groom	दुल्हा	ब्योल	Bride	दुल्हन	ब्योलि	Priest	पंडित जी	बाबन ज्यु
Shirt	कुर्ता	खील्ट	Trouser	पजामा	हुतोन	Shoe	जूता	पौल
Hot water	गरम पानी	तातो पानी	Cold water	ठण्डा पानी	ठण्डो पानी
Cury	कड़ी	पल्यो	Puri	पुडी	बागची	Jyola	ज्योला	डुपका
Grandfather	दादा	बुबू	Grandmother	दादी	अचै	Father’s sister	बुआ	आनी
Wind	हवा	ब्यार	Salt	नमक	लून	Tree	पेड	रूख
Fore head	माथा	कपाल	Head	सर	ख्वार	Mouth	मुह	थोल
Walk	चलना	हिट	Neck	गर्दन	गौल	Salty	नमकीन	लुल्योन

I wish to illustrate some of the sentences as below.

Did you come just now?     (elder )                                   तिमी  ऐले ओना ? 

Did you come just now?    (younger )                               तैए ऐले आयै ?

Who came with you?         ( elder )                                 तिमी दाकर कु आयै ?

Who was with you?           ( elder )                                 तिमी दागर कु छी ?

Will you go tomarrow?    (elder )                                    तिमी भोल ज़न्हा ? 

Will you go day after tomarrow?     (younger )              तई पोरों जाले । 

There is plenty of snow fall in Munsiari.—                 मुनस्यारी ह्यु लटपट हेरे ।

Where do your relations lives?                                  तमर लगलाट क़ा रैनन ?

Where do you live?                                                     तिमी क़ा रन छा ?

Who is this girl?                                                       यों  छयोरी कु हैं ?

Where is your son?                                                 त्योंर चोल क़ा छा ?

 Over the years present generation has, either deliberately or ignorantly left using most of the commonly spoken shauka words and replaced with Hindi words. Gradually shauka boly is going to disappear which is one of the tools on account of which; we are recognized as bhotia tribe of johar valley. This is protected to some extent because of people who are living in remote, distant border villages and they are still using our language and wearing traditional dress reminding us to practice native language. Cloths which our ancestors used were designed to suite high Himalayan region climate. It is unfortunate young generation are not comfortable using johari tribe language (बोली) and wearing traditional dress which confirm our identity and unites society. If any deterioration is visible, there is a probability of loosing identity. There is a probability, our bhotia tribe of johar valley will be considered as a lost tribe. We must endeavor to keep our identity intact so that we are proud of our community. I wish various associations will act and initiate damage control exercise immediately through awareness programs creating eagerness among community people to know about our culture, tradition and values. Detailed and serious thought process must be stared and proper environment should be created.  This is not the only case, there are thousands of languages experiencing the same fate across the world. I am personally not against the learning other important languages, but, at the same time I wish descendents should appreciate, admire and thank their elders to preserve Johari boly intact which will become one of the sources of identification and medium of interaction. It will help our people to come out of isolation, getting energy being part of a group and feeling a sense of oneness. We have example of Israel, they love their culture, tradition and values. Out worldly they are always at the top in generating wealth, expanding business, participating and contributing in the development of the country where ever they are settled.

In my opinion there is no need of starting of so many associations and committees, which may create problems and conflicts in near future, rather, we need to work on ground level realities and address the shortcomings. I have remembered my village (म्यर माटी) only to attract successive young generations to know about their ancestor’s native place (माटी ) and be proud of ancestor’s adventurous life style, keeping in mind that our identity remains intact down to generations. 

Devender Jangpangi

Village-burfu, presently residing at Haldwani, Uttrakhand